My truck hadn’t been started in a couple of very cold weeks, I tried to jump start it a couple of days, then I put a good battery in and started the truck, after a few seconds it blew oil everywhere and was pouring out on the ground. Any ideas, or suggestions?
Check the fluid levels and see if any are low or over filled. If one is low, concentrate on that system to determine where the leak is coming from.
1999 Ford Taurus V6 OVC gas SE trim. Issue: when cold, cranks for about 30 seconds then starts. Have to press accelerator slowly to keep running. After it warms up for about 3-4 min. it will stay started it will run and idle. It will run and drive at slow speeds. When you try to get to hwy speeds 45-55mph it bogs down and wants to die. If you pull off road and wait for a few seconds and slowly press the accelerator it will finally “catch it’s breath” and rev up. Put in back in gear and same thing happens again. I suspect either a fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. Attached a fuel pressure test kit at shrader valve. KOEO reads 12psi. KOER reads 21 psi. Removed vacuum hose from fuel pressure regulator PSI stayed the same (did not increase). So, fuel pump or Fuel pressure regulator or something else?
I would start with the fuel filter first and then re-test your pressures. If the filter is clogged or hasn’t been changed, there is a chance for a significant increase in pressure. This would make a difference across your readings. If the readings do not change, replace the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. Applying vacuum tot he regulator should increase the pressure. @0 psi is fine at idle and should increase toward 30 psi on acceleration.
Of course if there is a check engine light on you would need to scan the codes and address them also.
The truck is showing high oil temperature, thermostats were replaced and temperature sensor but the problem persists, do I have to replace the oil cooler of the engine?
The engines cooling system is not overheating, the engines oil is. If the engine temperature is good, then that part of the system is fine. It is possible for the oil cooler to be clogged or obstructed. The most common cause for overheating would be from a Snow Plow blade blocking the air flow.
Use Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil.
Engine coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, cooling efficiency and corrosion protection to the engine and cooling components. In order to obtain these protections, the engine coolant must be maintained at the correct concentration and fluid level in the degas bottle.
When adding engine coolant, use a 50/50 mixture of engine coolant and distilled water.
Removal and Installation
With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.
Drain the engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03.
Remove and discard the oil filter.
To install, tighten to 16 Nm (12 lb-ft).
Disconnect the oil cooler coolant hoses and position aside.
CAUTION: If metal foreign material is present in the oil cooler, mechanical concerns exist. To diagnose mechanical concerns, refer to Section 303-00. If the mechanical concern is not diagnosed and repaired, engine failure may occur.Remove and inspect the engine oil cooler.
Use only Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Coolant Revitalizer VC-12 as an additive to Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant. Do not mix with or add any other coolant additive. Use of any additive other than Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Coolant Revitalizer VC-12 degrades the corrosion protection of Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant and may damage the engine or cooling system components.
If the cooling system has been drained due to a repair, fill a clear, clean approximately 1 L or 1 qt container with coolant from the drain pan. If the coolant has not been drained from the cooling system, open the radiator draincock to fill a clear, clean approximately 1 L or 1 qt container with coolant.
During normal vehicle operation, Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant may change color from orange to pink or light red. As long as the engine coolant is clear and uncontaminated, this color change does not indicate the engine coolant has degraded nor does it require the engine coolant to be drained, the system to be flushed, or the engine coolant to be replaced.
What color anti-freeze do I need? Inspect the coolant color
Discoloration may indicate that incorrect coolant may have been added to the system. Use of incorrect (green or yellow in color) coolant degrades the corrosion protection of Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant. Addition of Motorcraft Specialty Green Engine Coolant may cause the color to appear to be a murky green-brown color. The addition of Motorcraft Premium Gold Coolant, however, may not change the color or appearance of the orange colored coolant. Detection of contamination with Premium Gold Engine Coolant is determined by the presence of nitrite. Flush the system and refill with the correct mixture of distilled water and Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant.
A darker orange with the presence of debris could indicate a commercially available stop leak may have been used and could result in loss of coolant flow to critical parts of the engine. If sediment is present in the coolant sample, flush the system and refill with the correct mixture of distilled water and Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant.
A light or reddish brown color indicates that rust may be present in the cooling system. Flush the system and refill with the correct mixture of distilled water and Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant.
An iridescent sheen on top of the coolant could indicate a trace of oil is entering the system. Flush the cooling system and refill with the correct mixture of distilled water and Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant.
A milky brown color may indicate that engine oil is entering the cooling system. Pressure test the cooling system. If engine oil is suspected, the cause of the leak may be internal to the engine. Flush the cooling system and refill with the correct mixture of distilled water and Motorcraft® Specialty Orange Engine Coolant.
Engine turns over but will not start. The engine light will not come on so I am assuming the computer is not energized. Checked the relays and they “click” as they are supposed. Moved them around to different sockets to try out whether defective.
The check engine light not coming on may be a simple bulb blown. Some shady sellers sometimes remove the bulb so as not to alert potential buyers of problems.The good news is, the check engine light does not have to be on to be able to pull the engine trouble codes.
As with any “Crank No Start” condition you will need to determine what the engine is not getting.
Fuel – Fuel pressure and injector pulse
Compression – each cylinder should be with in 20 psi of each other
Timing – all of the above at the right time.
I would start by spraying some starting fluid in the air filter to see if the engine starts. This is one fast easy test. If it does try to start, you now know the compression and spark are good. Concentrate on the fuel delivery system.
Know about cam phaser issue on the 5.4 L I have a 2009 f150 that knocks bad only when warm and a small shot of fuel on a slight hill or any hill at that
Does that sound like a cam phaser issue? works good other wise or would that be coils?
Sounds more to me like bad fuel or a rod knocking.
The cam phaser a greater issue for the 2004-2005 F-150. Any issue may be averted by using the correct oil and oil filter. From what I have read, run nothing but Motorcraft 5w-20 and 820s Filter and hope for the best, some replaced them only for the issue to come back…. stick with 5W-20 (and preferably a synthetic) because this thinner oil will flow easier through the cam phasers (which are basically just oil passage ways). When they get clogged up with thicker oil and engine sludge, this is when they begin going. Also, the motorcraft oil filters were designed by Ford and built by Honeywell with a anti-flowback type valve in them to help with oil flow.
The truck quit today. I left it and came back later and it cranked up. I can hear the fuel pump coming on. I drove a little ways and then stopped and replaced the fuel filter. After that when I drove off and came to a stop the truck would die. Then I put it in park and crank it back up and go. Then one time it died and wouldn’t start back. Once again after setting for a few hours it started right back up.
First thing to do is to determine what it is not getting when it won’t start.
I have a 1993 ford f-superduty 7.3l diesel and my tachometer don’t work. It’s an EO4D trans, and it don’t shift unless I do it manually?
I don’t know that the tachometer not working has anything to do with the transmission shifting issue but I added the wiring diagram for investigating. However the speedometer, odometer and transmission are directly affected by the VSS – Vehicle Speed Sensor. This is what I would look at first. Remove it from side of the transmission. Look at the end of it for metal fragments sticking to the magnet. Remove them and re-install or replace.
Tachometer Wiring Diagram
E4OD Transmission Operation
Input signals form sensors are sent to the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM can determine when the time and conditions are right for a shift or converter clutch application. The PCM can also determine line pressure needed to optimize the shift feel.
My 2006 Ford Fusion made a single minor shudder on my way home today. On the highway going about 120km/h. It wasn’t major, the car didn’t rev funny or lose power. I only felt it in my feet not on the steering wheel. It was just a little shake. I am just wondering if this is something major? It only happened once and then I was driving on the highway for another hour and it didn’t happen again. I commute quite far to work and want to make sure I don’t wind up stranded from a break down.
I wouldn’t worry to much about it at all unless it starts to happen more frequently. I would chalk it up as an engine misfire. In this case Ford has a check engine light that will illuminate if the issue becomes major. I would not read much into it at this point.