Jun 082016
 

Drain Tube Evaporator core housingAir conditioning works great, but in the humidity (florida) my carpet gets very wet only on the passenger side of my 1999 Ford Taurus. Not due to rain, have checked all window seals good. was told it could possibly be a drain tube plugged up. possible? Where exactly on firewall is it located? thanks


RESPONSE

There is a drain tube that does get clogged. It is at the bottom of the Evaporator Core housing. This is also the same location as the heater core housing.  Look below the heater core hoses at the firewall. That is the evaporator core housing. Look at and around the bottom of the housing. Simply prob the end of the tube with a pencil or screwdriver to unplug the drain tube.

Example location:

Ford Evaporator core drain plug location diagram

Jun 072016
 

2002 Ford F150Changed the fan clutch. Should it be really loud all the time it’s nothing like before and really bad gas mileage


RESPONSE

It may may a normal fan noise but should not sound like it is hitting something.

Bad fuel mileage may be from something else. Start with pulling the engine trouble codes.

 

Jun 032016
 

2001 Ford F1502001 ford F-150 4.6 misses after it warms up a little. runs smoothly while cold.


RESPONSE

When the engine is first started(cold) the computer uses preset parameters to operate the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature(warms up). At this point it moves from using the preset parameters to using the signals from the engine sensors.

The first thing to check would be any trouble codes that might be stored.

Jun 012016
 

2003 Ford TarusThe trans-axle light is on and blinking. But in park sometimes the car will sputter like its going to shut down but then recovers. When shifting into reverse its fine but when i shift to drive the car slams into gear so hard the car jumps and no matter how hard you hit the gas it only gets up to speed slowly.


RESPONSE

  1. Check for any engine and transmission codes present
  2. Check the transmission fluid level
  3. Check for vacuum leaks

If the engine rpms are high and the car isn’t moving yet the fluid level is full but the color is dark or burnt, you are looking at a transmission rebuild.

May 242016
 

2003 Ford EscapeI have already changed battery and alternator why wont my car charge? It is a 2003 Ford Escape


RESPONSE

There are several reasons why your car won’t charge:

  1. Faulty “NEW” alternator – How to test an Alternator
  2. Faulty “NEW” battery
  3. Bad connections or corrosion
  4. Blown Fuse – fuse B, 120 amp or Fuse 11, 15 amp
  5. Bad wiring – Wiring Harness

The charging system consists of the following components:

  • generator
  • integral voltage regulator

The generator maximum output provides 110 amps.

Charging System

The charging system is a negative ground system consisting of the following:

  • generator
  • PCM (2.0L Zetec)
  • internal voltage regulator
  • charging system warning indicator
  • battery
  • circuitry and cables

The generator is belt-driven by the engine accessory drive system.

Battery

The battery is a 12 volt direct current source connected in a negative ground system. The battery case is sealed and includes two vent holes to release gases. The battery has three major functions:

  • engine cranking power source
  • voltage stabilizer for the electrical system
  • temporary power when electrical loads exceed the generator output current

2003 Ford Escape Charging System Wiring Diagram

2003-ford-escape-charging-circuit-1-of-1
May 112016
 

2005 Ford Ranger 4x4My 2005 ford ranger supercab 4×4 doesn’t want to shift into second gear ,it shifts alright first ,third,fourth and OD.It is a manual transmission.


RESPONSE

If it shifts OK when the engine isn’t running then the most likely problem is the clutch system. Most common would be the hydraulic clutch slave/master cylinder assembly. I recommend replacing the entire unit and using a factory ford assembly. They come pre-bled and saves time trying to bleed air from the system.

If it doesn’t want to shift when the engine isn’t running, the synchronizer is worn/damaged internal in the transmission.

Clutch

The primary function of the clutch system is to connect and disconnect engine power to the transmission upon driver command.

The clutch control system disengages the clutch when the clutch pedal is depressed and engages the clutch when the clutch pedal is released. When the clutch pedal is depressed, it pushes the clutch master cylinder plunger, which transmits hydraulic pressure to the clutch slave cylinder. The clutch slave cylinder engages and compresses the clutch pressure plate diaphragm spring, releasing the pressure on the clutch disc, which in turn disengages the transmission from the engine.

  • The clutch is a single-plate, dry friction clutch disc with a self-adjusting, diaphragm-style spring clutch pressure plate.
  • The clutch operating mechanism consists of a clutch slave cylinder with an integral release bearing.
  • A pilot bearing supports the end of the input shaft. The bearing does not require lubrication unless the clutch system is serviced.

Manual Transmission and Clutch

The manual transmission has a tag to identify assemblies for repair purposes. For additional information, refer to Section 308-03 for the transmission tag information.

The purpose of the clutch is to connect and disconnect a manually operated transmission, and the remainder of the driveline system, from the engine. This allows starting and stopping the vehicle, shifting and changing speeds that correspond to the engine speed through gear reductions.

The clutch operating mechanism consists of:

  • Flywheel (6375)
  • Clutch disc (7550)
  • Clutch pressure plate (7563)
  • Clutch release hub and bearing (7A508)
  • Clutch master cylinder (7A543)
  • Clutch slave cylinder (7A508)
  • Clutch reservoir (7K500)

The clutch master cylinder transmits fluid pressure to the clutch slave cylinder, which in turn moves the clutch release hub and bearing. Check this first if it doesn’t want to shift. The clutch hydraulic system uses brake fluid and has a separate reservoir. The clutch is a single plate, dry-friction disc with a diaphragm-style spring pressure plate. The clutch disc has frictional material where it contacts the flywheel and the clutch pressure plate. the clutch pressure plate applies pressure to the clutch disc, holding it tightly against the surface of the flywheel.

In the engaged position, the clutch pressure plate diaphragm spring holds the clutch pressure plate against the clutch disc, so that the engine torque is transmitted to the input shaft. When the clutch is depressed, movement is transmitted through the clutch hydraulic system, which actuates the clutch release hub and bearing. The clutch release hub and bearing pushes on the spring center towards the flywheel. The diaphragm spring pivots at the fulcrum, relieving the load on the clutch pressure plate. Steel spring straps riveted in the clutch pressure plate cover pull the clutch pressure plate from the clutch disc, disengaging the engine torque from the transmission.

May 102016
 

2003 Ford F350My truck hadn’t been started in a couple of very cold weeks, I tried to jump start it a couple of days, then I put a good battery in and started the truck, after a few seconds it blew oil everywhere and was pouring out on the ground. Any ideas, or suggestions?


RESPONSE

Check the fluid levels and see if any are low or over filled. If one is low, concentrate on that system to determine where the leak is coming from.

May 092016
 

1999 Ford Taurus1999 Ford Taurus V6 OVC gas SE trim. Issue: when cold, cranks for about 30 seconds then starts. Have to press accelerator slowly to keep running. After it warms up for about 3-4 min. it will stay started it will run and idle. It will run and drive at slow speeds. When you try to get to hwy speeds 45-55mph it bogs down and wants to die. If you pull off road and wait for a few seconds and slowly press the accelerator it will finally “catch it’s breath” and rev up. Put in back in gear  and same thing happens again. I suspect either a fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. Attached a fuel pressure test kit at shrader valve. KOEO reads 12psi. KOER reads 21 psi. Removed vacuum hose from fuel pressure regulator PSI stayed the same (did not increase). So, fuel pump or Fuel pressure regulator or something else?


RESPONSE

I would start with the fuel filter first and then re-test your pressures. If the filter is clogged or hasn’t been changed, there is a chance for a significant increase in pressure. This would make a difference across your readings. If the readings do not change, replace the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator.  Applying vacuum tot he regulator should increase the pressure. @0 psi is fine at idle and should increase toward 30 psi on acceleration.

Of course if there is a check engine light on you would need to scan the codes and address them also.