Why does my ford focus have an antifreeze leak and when the motor is off why does the engine hiss ?
An antifreeze leak happens when there is a hole in the system. The system will still try to do its job and ends up creating pressure that causes a hissing sound when the engine is turned off. I’m sure it is hissing when the engine is running, just difficult to hear over the engine itself. Topping off the coolant level may eliminate the issue temporarily until you have time to have the leak repaired.
Hello, My vehicle has no power to interior lights, exterior lights, and when I attempt to start the truck it won’t even turn over? The truck has a brand new battery, alternator, key ignition switch and starter that is just one year old! The truck will turn over when I cross the negative and positive terminals on the solenoid but it still will not start? Please help me, Thank You…
Looking at the wiring diagram below I see the Battery positive connection to the headlight switch is separate from the battery positive to the Ignition switch. I would think it is still a connection issue at the battery and a bad fuse link. Make sure there is no corrosion and if you need to use a multi-meter to test your connections.
Assuming both of these cars are in good condition, which would be the better one to buy.
2001 Nissan Sentra
76 thousand miles
2007 Ford Fusion
87 thousand miles
I realize that the Ford Fusion is quite a few years newer than the Nissan, but often times non American makes are the better choice.
A big deciding factor would be price. If they are both the same price, the newer one. If the 2001 is $500 and the 2007 is $5800, I would go with the 2001. I will say that at one point in my servicing carrier I was astounded to find a Nissan production sticker under the hood of a Ford Windstar. Similar to the Nissan Quest I suppose. So not sure that “American makes” would impact my decision at all.
When all is said and done, I would go with the Newer 2007 Ford Fusion. It is newer, and will retain its resale value longer.
No heat in car but air is blowing, can you please give me some advice as to what to do, thank you.
Number one cause of no heat would be low coolant. Most likely caused form a leak. Pressure test the cooling system and repair any leaks found. Top off coolant and test.
No heat in car
Couple of reasons for a no heat situation. One would be if the blower motor is not blowing. We will assume it is but still has no heat. So you are left with a few causes for no heat in car. One would be if the coolant level was to low. If left unchecked things could worsen and turn into a overheating problem. Repair any leaks found. Another cause would be if the coolant level was full but the thermostat is sticking. Possible restricted or clogged heater core. One more thing to check would be for blockage in the ventilation ducts.
I have been putting water in the coolant reservoir of my 2004 Ford Explorer and because of the cold temperatures the water froze up. And now the upper radiator hose popped off and is frozen. Is my radiator damaged too? I don’t have the money to replace the engine or hose right now. What can I do?
Not a good idea to put straight water in the cooling system. One, it will freeze as you are now aware. And two, the water pump bearings are no longer being lubricated. Radiator should be OK but checking for leaks once it is repaired wouldn’t hurt. You will need to thaw out the engine and drain the cooling system. Reattached the upper hose and secure it with a radiator hose clamp. Refill the cooling system with 50/50 mix coolant.
Drain the cooling system.
Recover the A/C refrigerant. For additional information, refer to Air Conditioning.
Having trouble getting heat. Replaced thermostat, flushed heater core but not getting any water thru outlet hose.
When having trouble getting heat, after replacing the thermostat and flushing the radiator, my first thought would an air pocket. The cooling system should be bled anytime coolant is drained. This should get any air out of the system. If you are certain the thermostat is opening (both upper and lower radiator hoses will be hot and pressure released) then you might consider a new pressure cap. The thermostat should open between 180 and 220. You can use an infra-red temperature gauge to rule out a bad dash gauge reading. Good idea when having trouble getting heat is to make sure the coolant level is full and the thermostat is working.
How to bleed engine cooling system
Select maximum heater temperature and blower motor speed settings. Position control to discharge air at A/C vents in instrument panel (04320) .
Start engine and allow to idle. While engine is idling, feel for hot air at A/C vents.
CAUTION: If air discharge remains cool and engine coolant temperature gauge does not move, engine coolant level is low in engine and must be filled. Stop engine, allow to cool and fill cooling system as described.
Start engine and allow to idle until normal operating temperature is reached. Hot air should discharge from A/C vents. The engine coolant temperature gauge should maintain a stabilized reading to within the NORMAL range and the upper radiator hose (8260) should feel hot to the touch.
Shut engine off and allow to cool.
Check engine for coolant leaks.
NOTE: When engine coolant level indicator flashes, approximately 0.946-1.416 liter (1-1.5 qts.) of coolant mixture can be added to the degas bottle after a proper engine coolant system refill.
Check engine coolant level in degas bottle and fill as necessary.
Rule out the cooling system when having trouble getting heat
Sometimes the cooling system isn’t the problem. Instead the problem may be in the ventilation system. Make sure the cooling system is full and the engine is at operating temperature. Both heater hoses should be too hot to hold on too. This means the heating part of the system is working properly. Concentrate on the mode door actuators and control head.
Make sure the brake master cylinder reservoir is full.
Bled brakes – see Brake System Bleeding.
Now that you are seeing nothing but brake fluid and no air bubbles, top off the fluid level again and pump up the brake pedal.
3) If the brake pedal is still going to the floor after you have already bled them, have someone pump the brake pedal while you look underneath for a spraying brake fluid mess that will eventually form a puddle and drain your brake fluid.
Brake System Bleeding
Scan Tool or Vehicle Communication Module (VCM) and Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) software with appropriate hardware
WARNING: Use of any brake fluid other than approved DOT 3 will cause permanent damage to brake components and will render the brakes inoperative. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.
CAUTION: Do not allow the brake master cylinder reservoir to run dry during the bleeding operation. Keep the brake master cylinder reservoir filled with clean, specified brake fluid. Never reuse the brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system.
CAUTION: Brake fluid is harmful to painted and plastic surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled onto a painted or plastic surface, immediately wash it with water.
NOTE: When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or installation of new components, air can get into the system and cause spongy brake pedal action. This requires bleeding of the hydraulic system after it has been correctly connected. The hydraulic system can be bled manually or with pressure bleeding equipment.
Manual Bleeding Brakes
1.Connect the scan tool to the vehicle data link connector (DLC) and follow the scan tool instructions.
2.Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with clean, specified brake fluid.
3.NOTE: Bleed the brake system in the order displayed on the scan tool.
Attach a rubber drain hose to the bleeder screw and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean, specified brake fluid.
4.Have an assistant hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
5.Loosen the bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the bleeder screw.
•Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
•Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
6.Tighten the bleeder screw.
•Tighten to 15 Nm (11 lb-ft).
7.Repeat Steps 3, 4, 5 and 6 for the remaining bleeder screws in the system.
Pressure Bleeding Brakes
1.Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap. Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with clean, specified brake fluid.
2.NOTE: Master cylinder pressure bleeder adapter tools are available from various manufacturers of pressure bleeding equipment. Follow the instructions of the manufacturer when installing the adapter.
Install the bleeder adapter to the brake master cylinder reservoir, and attach the bleeder tank hose to the fitting on the adapter.
3.NOTE: Bleed the longest tube first. Make sure the bleeder tank contains enough specified brake fluid to complete the bleeding operation.
Attach a rubber drain hose to the RH rear bleeder screw, and submerge the free end of the hose in a container partially filled with clean, specified brake fluid.
4.Open the valve on the bleeder tank.
5.Loosen the RH rear bleeder screw. Leave open until clear, bubble-free brake fluid flows, then tighten the RH rear bleeder screw and remove the rubber hose.
•Tighten to 15 Nm (11 lb-ft).
6.Continue bleeding the rear of the system, going in order from the LH rear bleeder screw to the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw and ending with the LH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw.
7.Close the bleeder tank valve. Remove the tank hose from the adapter, and remove the adapter.
Brake System Leak Check
1.Make sure the brake master cylinder reservoir is full.
NOTE: Brake fluid is water soluble and it is possible that all evidence of fluid leakage has been washed off if the vehicle has been operated in the rain or snow.
2.Apply the brakes several times and make sure the brake pedal feel is not spongy. If necessary, bleed the system. For additional information, refer to Brake System Bleeding in this section.
3.If the brake reservoir level is going down, inspect the brake components, fittings, tubes and hoses to locate the source of the leak.
My 1997 Ford Expedition has a Rough idle and code p1726 on OBD II scanner. Need advice on where to look for problem. Power steering has been squealing for 2 weeks and nothing else.
Looking at the p1726 code definition and the rough idle I would be curious if the engine smooths out if the accelerator is applied a tiny bit. If it does, you might be able to clean the throat of the throttle body and the edges of the butterfly. This will increase the amount of air able to enter the engine and would in turn increase the amount of fuel. And ultimately increasing the engines idle speed. This is quite common on older cars and trucks.
If the engine seems to run rough no matter where the accelerator is, you may be experiencing an engine misfire. Once the misfire happens often enough the OBD II system will store a code. The code will pinpoint the exact cylinder/s causing the issue.
As for the power steering squealing noise, the first thing to do would be to check the fluid level. If the fluid level is full and the serpentine belt tests OK, replace the power steering pump. If the fluid level is low, repair any leaks and top off before testing.
Ford Expedition Code P1726 – Insufficient Engine Speed Decrease During Self Test