How do you change the intake manifold gaskets? I can smell antifreeze but I can’t see anything leaking on the ground. My brother in-law has the same problem, and he had his checked out and they said the vortex motors were coming for that. I’d like to know how to do this on my own if I can thank you!
My 1992 GMC 3500 started developing a skip under load. So I did the normal spark plugs, wires, complete distributor, coil, test drove and still skips under load. Truck has 100,000 miles on it, so I replaced the fuel filter then fuel pump. Test drove and still skips at times under load. Now starting to pop up through TBI unit. Any ideas? Have made sure timing is set correctly. Did compression test and all cylinders are at between 145-150.
Backfire through TBI
A pop through the TBI is equivalent to a backfire through TBI.
Anytime an engine backfires through the intake it is from spark occurring while an intake valve is still open. Now this can be from pour timing or an open valve. Since you have done a compression test and received excellent results it makes you want to focus on the ignition timing. I would double check to make sure you have set your timing correctly. Doesn’t hurt to check it more than once. Therefore I have added the timing adjustment procedure below for convenience.
I have had sticking intake valves do this from carbon build up on the valve from an RV that had set for a while. It would intermittently cause a valve to stick open. I too would get good compression readings but after testing and retesting found that intermittently one of the engine cylinders compression was ZERO and then would go back up(engine has 14,000 miles). I tried SEAFOAM with no luck. Tried SEAFOAM 4 more times each time driving 200 miles and then changing the oil. Eventually it cleared up on its own after 4,000 miles of driving.
Setting and Adjusting Engine Ignition Timing
Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature. Stop the engine and connect the timing light to the No. 1 (left front) spark plug wire, at the plug or at the distributor cap. You can also use the No. 6 wire, if it is more convenient. Numbering is illustrated in this section.
NOTE: Do not pierce the plug wire insulation with HEI; it will cause a miss. The best method is an inductive pickup timing light.
Clean off the timing marks and mark the pulley or damper notch and timing scale with white chalk.
Disconnect and plug the vacuum line at the distributor on models with a carburetor. This is done to prevent any distributor vacuum advance. On fuel injected models, disengage the timing connector which comes out of the harness conduit next to the distributor, this will put the system in the bypass mode. Check the underhood emission sticker for any other hoses or wires which may need to be disconnected.
Start the engine and adjust the idle speed to that specified on the Underhood Emissions label. With automatic transmission, set the specified idle speed in Park. It will be too high, since it is normally (in most cases) adjusted in Drive. You can disconnect the idle solenoid, if any, to get the speed down. Otherwise, adjust the idle speed screw.The tachometer connects to the TACH terminal on the distributor and to a ground on models with a carburetor. On models with fuel injection, the tachometer connects to the TACH terminal on the ignition coil. Some tachometers must connect to the TACH terminal and to the positive battery terminal. Some tachometers won’t work with HEI.
WARNING Never ground the HEI TACH terminal; serious system damage will result.
Aim the timing light at the pointer marks. Be careful not to touch the fan, because it may appear to be standing still. If the pulley or damper notch isn’t aligned with the proper timing mark (see the Underhood Emissions label), the timing will have to be adjusted.
NOTE: TDC or Top Dead Center corresponds to 0ï¿½B, or BTDC, or Before Top Dead Center may be shown as BEFORE. A, or ATDC, or After Top Dead Center may be shown as AFTER.
Loosen the distributor base clamp locknut. You can buy trick wrenches which make this task a lot easier.
Turn the distributor slowly to adjust the timing, holding it by the body and not the cap. Turn the distributor in the direction of rotor rotation to retard, and against the direction of rotation to advance.
Tighten the locknut. Check the timing again, in case the distributor moved slightly as you tightened it.
Reinstall the distributor vacuum line or the timing connector. Correct the idle speed.
The parking brake will not release, pedal stuck. It worked for hours, but could not get it. I did not want to do too much without guide. any tips ? thanks
The Parking brake system consists of the a brake lever, two cables, adjuster and brake shoes. In order to determine if the lever itself is at fault disconnect the cable and test.
Park Brake Lubrication
Clean and lubricate the park brake lever assembly using Lubriplate GM P/N 1050109 or the equivalent.
Plastic coated parking brake cables do not need periodic lubrication. However, before performing service that involves the adjuster, perform the following steps:
•Clean the exposed threads on each side of the nut.
Important Lubricate the threads of the adjusting rod before turning the nut
•Lubricate the threads of the adjusting rod using Lubriplate GM P/N 1050109 or the equivalent.
The park brake must be adjusted any time the park brake cables have been replaced or disconnected, if the park brake shoes have been replaced or if under heavy foot pressure the pedal travel is less than half the pedal total travel. Before adjusting the park brake, check the condition of the service brakes.
Raise the vehicle and support the vehicle with safety stands.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Take off the caliper and the rotor.
Remove the park brake cable from the park brake lever.
Adjust the shoe diameter using the adjuster nut.
Turn the adjuster nut clockwise to increase the diameter until the rear wheel will not rotate without excessive force in a forward direction.
Connect the park brake cable to the park brake lever.
yes i was told that i could take my transfer case (that is a two wire plug-in to encoder) and use a 6 wire transfer case but just change the encoder motor on it with the one off of my… and put the two wire encode on that transfer case.. will this really work…. will the pcm still read and work right. i no it has to be able to read the pwm ,pm ,rpm,vss, and hell who no;s i don’t thats y im here asking hope some one give me some info. on this thanks gene
Since you are still using the same electronics, I don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work. The computer won’t even know you have changed anything and should work just fine.
I was tracing some wires from my transfer case and ended up under the dash driver side.. any ways I found a fuse box just above the info. plug the box has 4 fuses in it there marked micro 1,2,3,4 can any one tell me what they are and what they run (or do ) my Haynes book don’t tell me sh_ _ but these cheap books never really do tell you or show you much .. thanks
I have to agree with you on the Haynes manuals. These days they are not half as good as they once where. If you want Up to date vehicle specific information I recommend an Online Auto Repair Manual. They have more information than you could ever need. They include a full set of wiring diagrams and repair estimator. Well worth the money in my opinion.
On to the fuse box. The fuses should be covered in your owners manual. To find the specific page you can look up “fuses” in the index at the back of the manual. If you do not have a manual you may view yours online for free.
Due to oil pressure gauge at 0, replaced oil pressure sensor 1.5 years ago, fixed problem until 2 weeks ago. Replaced sensor again, fixed for 1 week but then again read 0. Oil level is ok, engine sounds good and runs fine.It is a 2006 GMC Envoy, 5.3 liter, 156k miles. Suggestion? thanks
If there is a ticking noise, the oil pressure may actually be low oil pressure. If the engine seems normal other than the light being on lets dig deeper. The sensor has been giving you some issues which is normal. I would think since you have had to replace it several times there may be an issue with the wiring or the connection at the sensor.
What to Try First, Low Oil Pressure
Have someone sit in the vehicle and watch the oil light/gauge. Perform the wiggle test by wiggling the wires and the connection at the oil pressure sending unit. You may refer to the wiring diagram to help trace any wiring issue you encounter.
My all wheel drive is not working. I just have rear wheel drive. I need to find out how the all wheel drive is wired. Where dose the transfer case get powered from. How does the all wheel drive stay in all wheel drive and how dose the wiring run (to what or from what relay)?
Power is delivered from the transmission (1) to the input shaft (2). The input shaft (2) is splined to the rear output shaft (7). To deliver the power to the rear propeller shaft (9), the power is constant through the rear output shaft (7). When power is required for the front propeller shaft (11), a command is sent to the encoder motor (13). The encoder motor (13) rotates the shift detent lever (12), which is cam shaped. The cam action moves the clutch lever (3). The clutch lever (3) pivots on the clutch lever pivot studs, and moves toward the clutch apply plate to engage the clutch. As more pressure is applied to the clutch apply plate, the clutch discs are compressed. Using the inner clutch discs, which are engaged with the clutch hub (4), and the outer clutch discs, which are engaged with clutch housing (5), the power flow is delivered to the clutch housing (5). The clutch hub (4) is splined to the rear output shaft (7). The clutch housing (5) rotates on a needle bearing on the rear output shaft (7). The chain drive sprocket (6) is splined to the clutch housing (5). The power flows from the drive sprocket (6), through the chain (9), to the chain driven sprocket. The chain driven sprocket is splined to the front output shaft (10). The power flow is delivered to the front propshaft (11) through the front output shaft (10).
New Venture Gear 136 Automatic Transfer Case
During normal driving situations, the Auto 4WD mode is active. During the Auto 4WD mode, the transfer case shift control module monitors rear wheel slip speed, based on the inputs from both the front and rear propshaft speed sensors. When the vehicle experiences a rear wheel slip condition, the transfer case shift control module sends a pulse width modulated (PWM) signal to an electronic motor, transfer case encoder motor. This motor rotates the transfer case sector shaft, applying a clutch pack. This clutch pack is designed to deliver a variable amount of torque, normally delivered to the rear wheels, and transfers it to the front wheels. Torque is then ramped up to the front wheels, until the front propshaft speed sensor matches that of the rear propshaft speed sensor. Torque is then ramped down, until torque is completely removed from the front wheels or until rear wheel slip is once again detected. The process then repeats.
View the list of major components that make up the automatic transfer case (ATC) system below.
SERVICE Indicator (4WD/AWD) Lamp
The SERVICE indicator (4WD/AWD) lamp is an integral part of the cluster and cannot be serviced separately. This lamp is used to inform the driver of malfunctions within the automatic transfer case (ATC) system. The SERVICE indicator (4WD/AWD) lamp is controlled by the transfer case shift control module via a Class 2 message or by a Service Indicator Control circuit.
Transfer Case Encoder Motor
The transfer case encoder motor consists of a permanent magnet (PM) DC motor and gear reduction assembly. It is located on the left hand side of the transfer case. When activated, it turns the sector shaft of the transfer case to shift the transfer case and to apply the clutch that applies the front propshaft. The encoder motor is controlled with a pulse width modulated (PWM) circuit provided by the transfer case shift control module. This circuit consists of a power supply relay, Motor Control A, and supplies voltage to the motor. The Motor Control B circuit is a PWM driver that varies the duty cycle to control the amount of current through the motor to ground. The transfer case encoder motor can be turned ON and OFF using a scan tool. You may also monitor Motor Control A and B circuits using a scan tool.
Transfer Case Shift Control Module
The transfer case shift control module uses the VIN information for calculations that are required for the different calibrations used based on axle ratio, transmission, tire size, and engine. The system does not know which calibration to use without this information. This information is provided to the transfer case shift control module via Class 2 data bus from the powertrain control module (PCM). The transfer case shift control module monitors front and rear propshaft speed as well as controlling the operation of the transfer case encoder motor assembly.
Transfer Case Speed Sensors
There are three speed sensors mounted on the transfer case. 2 speed sensors are mounted on the rear output shaft and one on the front output shaft. Each speed sensor is a permanent magnet (PM) generator. The PM generator produces an AC voltage. The AC voltage level and number of pulses increases as speed increases.
Front Propshaft Speed Sensor – The transfer case shift control module converts the pulsating AC voltage from the front transfer case speed sensor to front propshaft speed, in RPM to be used for calculations, and to monitor the difference between the front and rear sensor speed. It is also used in the AUTO 4WD mode to determine the amount of slip and the percent of torque to apply to the front axle. The front propshaft speed can be displayed with a scan tool.
Rear Propshaft Speed Sensor – The transfer case shift control module converts the pulsating AC voltage from the rear transfer case speed sensor to a rear propshaft speed, in RPM to be used for calculations. The rear propshaft speed can be displayed with a scan tool.
Vehicle Speed Sensor – One of the 2 speed sensors on the rear output shaft is the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) input to the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM sends this information to the transfer case shift control module via the Class 2 serial data bus.
Hello, I have a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3L Ext cab, the AC intermittently working. It will always work when I first start the truck and then blow warm air. It will blow cold shorter times during hotter days. The compressor is not running when it blows warm. I have checked the charge on the system and it is good. I have replaced the low pressure switch and checked the continuity is good. Not sure what the next step would be, the relay module or the High pressure switch? or icing up the line and needs purged? or the wire connection at the low pressure switch?
AC Intermittently Working
My initial thoughts would be to check the high speed fan and or the high speed fan relay. The system is charged and the compressor is cycling as it should. So lets look to make sure the fan is cooling the Freon in the condenser.
It may be possible that the Electronic Blend Door Actuator is not functioning properly which would only allow warm air to pass through vents. The Air Conditioning lines going into the firewall would be cold if this is the case. Most common to replace actuator.
I have a 2005 GMC Yukon XL that I have just replaced the fuel pump in. After getting the old pump out and installing the new one, reconnecting all the hoses and lines and getting the tank back up in place, I turned the key to the on position about 4-5 times to re pressurize the system. After that the truck started right up. Ran perfect. The wife used to it to run a few errands, and later ran to the store, still no problems.
Next day, I went to run to the gas station and it didn’t start right up. I just turned the key to the on position a couple times and it started. As I proceeded to drive down the road, I stepped on the gas pretty good and it like fell flat. It wouldn’t rev up. I left it run as I ran into the store and on my way back it seemed to slowly rev up more and more.
Later that afternoon we went to leave and took like 15-20 minutes to get started. And every time I would put it in gear it would die. So I left it till the next day and now I can’t get it to start, sounds like it wants to but wont. I can still here the fuel pump turn on when I turn the key to the on position but, it sounds like its got air bubbles in it?? Like its pushing air. I ended up replacing the pressure line because I couldn’t get the old fuel line out of the the plastic connector. It took some time but I did end up finally getting the old return line out and was able to use the original plastic connector.
I just wondering if that original return connector isn’t holding pressure? Or if I have some other line that isn’t seated properly?? Or, do I have a faulty fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter?? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank You!!
Anytime you have a “crank no start” problem you first want to determine what the engine is not getting. Once you know for sure its not getting spark or fuel you can concentrate on that system. Since you are pretty certain you have a fuel problem. A quick test can be done. Spray starting fluid in the air filter while someone cranks the engine over. Hold the gas pedal at least half way while doing so. If the engine fires right up, you have proven there is a fuel related problem. About the only way to get air into the system would be if the fuel tank was empty or the fuel pump was faulty.
The fuel filter should be replaced anytime the fuel pump is replaced. It is a normal maintenance part and will only help the situation. Of course the fuel system needs to re pressurized after replacing the fuel filter similar to what you did when you replace the fuel pump earlier. The in-line fuel filter is located on the rail behind the composition sensor for the 5.3L engine. The 4.8L,6.0L and 8.1L engines do not have an external fuel filter, just the one in the tank connected tot he fuel pump.
Fuel Pressure Testing
When dealing with the fuel system it is important to know the fuel pressure of the system. Without the correct fuel pressure the fuel injectors will not fire. The fuel system pressure should be between 55-62 psi for gasoline engines and is slightly lower for ethanol engines at 48-54 psi. Connect the fuel pressure gauge tot he fuel rail test port located under the engine sight shield. In conclusion when the fuel pressure is below the specified reading some restriction may be involved. Consequently replace the fuel filter and see if the reading increases. If not the fuel pump may need to be replaced as a result.
My 2000 GMC Safari van clunks and jerks when I stop or start. And does the same when I turn the wheel all the way either direction.
Difficult to guess without some testing. I would recommend placing the front end securely on jack stands. Turn the wheels from side to side to try and reproduce the issue. Inspect all moving components. Look for loose ball joints and wheel bearings while still listening for clunks. Wiggle the tire from top to bottom and side to side while someone looks for anything loose.
With the vehicle on the ground, in park and the engine running turn the wheel all the way in either direction. Doing this should help recreate the issue and allow someone on the outside to listen for the problem area. Once the area is located a more in depth inspection will be necessary.