I have a new to me Suburban, it is all power. This vehicle has a Smart Start Security System and the key fob will not lock the door. The right rear door is missing the up/down button to manually lock from inside. The right rear door will not lock using to front power lock button.
If I replace the handle/lock assembly on inside will I be able to lock the door from the inside if the actuator is bad?
Yes, if you replace all the missing “manual” components in the door. You will be able to manually lock the door. Even if the electrical actuator portion does not function.
Idles a little rough and when pressing the accelerator doesn’t have power and stalls sometimes.
Doesn’t have power
The first thing to do would be to have any check engine light codes scanned. Post them below in the comments. If there are no check engine light codes then the most common cause for this on your vehicle would be a lack of fuel pressure. This can be from a faulty fuel pump or a restriction in the fuel line. The restriction could be a clogged fuel filter or a kink in the line. Could also be from a faulty sensor signalling the PCM to use less fuel such as a faulty MAF sensor.
A quick test would be to have someone press the accelerator and when it bogs, spray some starting fluid in the air filter. If the engine revs up then you know it is a lack of fuel that is causing the issue.
When the truck sets for an extended period of 24 hours or longer, it takes many engine crank overs before the fuel is pumped back up to the carburetor for the engine to start. Thus far have changed out the sending unit in the gas tank, the fuel pump, and sent the Q-Jet carb off for rebuild (twice) to fix the problem but no luck so far problem still exists. Any ideas? Thanks.
The carburetor has a float bowl and will have fuel in it at all times. So thinking the carburetor is out of gas would be incorrect. It would be easy to test by simply working the throttle on the side of the carburetor and visually seeing fuel squirt.If the float bowl is empty, then you have a leak. Either an external leak or an internal fuel pump leak. An external leak should be easy enough to find by putting a piece of cardboard under it and leave it set after you park it for the night. An internal fuel pump leak you will not be able to see but the fuel pressure will bleed off from an internal leak.
I am thinking more along the lines that the choke is not functional or is not being set properly before initial start up.
The proper way to start a non-fuel injection engine would be to press the accelerator pedal to the floor and then let off completely. With your foot still off the pedal turn the ignition key to the “START” position and hold for no longer than 10 seconds. By pressing the pedal to the floor before cranking it sets the choke and squirts a bit of gas into the intake manifold.
8-350, 8-400, and 8-454 Engines
IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT
1.All adjustments should be made with the engine at normal operating temperature, air cleaner on, choke open, and air conditioning off, unless otherwise noted.
2.Set the parking brake and block the rear wheels.
3.Automatics should be place in Drive, manuals in Neutral, except as noted in the Tune-Up Specifications chart.
4.Check the underhood emissions sticker to determine which hoses, if any, must be disconnected.
5.For two barrel carburetors, make sure that the idle speed screw is on the low( L) step of the fast idle cam.
6.For vehicles without air conditioning, do the following: A.Turn the idle speed screw to adjust idle speed to the specification found in the Tune-Up Specifications chart or on the underhood emissions sticker.
B.Open the throttle slightly to allow the solenoid plunger to extend.
C.Turn the solenoid screw to adjust the curb idle to specification, as given in the chart or on the emission control sticker in the engine compartment.
D.Then disconnect the electrical connector from the solenoid. The idle speed will drop.
E.Turn the idle speed screw to set the slow engine idle to the figure given on the emission control sticker.
F.Reconnect the solenoid and shut off the engine.
7.For vehicles equipped with air conditioning, do the following: A.Turn the idle speed screw to set the idle to specifications.
B.Disconnect the air conditioner compressor electrical lead at the compressor, and turn the air conditioner on.
C.Open the throttle slightly to allow the solenoid plunger to fully extend.
D.Turn the solenoid screw and adjust to the specification on the emission control label and the Tune-Up Specifications chart.
E.Reconnect the air conditioner compressor lead.
8.Reconnect any hoses that were disconnected.
IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT
Mixture is adjustable on heavy duty emissions V8s with the four barrel M4MC carburetor. This procedure will not work on light duty emissions trucks.
1.The engine must be at normal operating temperature, choke open, parking brake applied, and the transmission in Park or Neutral. Block the rear wheels and do not stand in front of the truck when making adjustments.
2.Remove the air cleaner. Connect a tachometer and a vacuum gauge to the engine.
3.Turn the idle mixture screws in lightly until they seat, then back them out two turns. Be careful not to tighten the mixture screw against its seat, or damage may result.
4.Adjust the idle speed screw to obtain the engine rpm figure specified on the emission control label.
5.Adjust the idle mixture screws equally to obtain the highest engine speed.
6.Repeat Steps 4 and 5 until the best idle is obtained.
7.Shut off the engine, remove the tachometer and vacuum gauge, and install the air cleaner.
How do you change the intake manifold gaskets? I can smell antifreeze but I can’t see anything leaking on the ground. My brother in-law has the same problem, and he had his checked out and they said the vortex motors were coming for that. I’d like to know how to do this on my own if I can thank you!
My 1992 GMC 3500 started developing a skip under load. So I did the normal spark plugs, wires, complete distributor, coil, test drove and still skips under load. Truck has 100,000 miles on it, so I replaced the fuel filter then fuel pump. Test drove and still skips at times under load. Now starting to pop up through TBI unit. Any ideas? Have made sure timing is set correctly. Did compression test and all cylinders are at between 145-150.
Backfire through TBI
A pop through the TBI is equivalent to a backfire through TBI.
Anytime an engine backfires through the intake it is from spark occurring while an intake valve is still open. Now this can be from pour timing or an open valve. Since you have done a compression test and received excellent results it makes you want to focus on the ignition timing. I would double check to make sure you have set your timing correctly. Doesn’t hurt to check it more than once. Therefore I have added the timing adjustment procedure below for convenience.
I have had sticking intake valves do this from carbon build up on the valve from an RV that had set for a while. It would intermittently cause a valve to stick open. I too would get good compression readings but after testing and retesting found that intermittently one of the engine cylinders compression was ZERO and then would go back up(engine has 14,000 miles). I tried SEAFOAM with no luck. Tried SEAFOAM 4 more times each time driving 200 miles and then changing the oil. Eventually it cleared up on its own after 4,000 miles of driving.
Setting and Adjusting Engine Ignition Timing
Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature. Stop the engine and connect the timing light to the No. 1 (left front) spark plug wire, at the plug or at the distributor cap. You can also use the No. 6 wire, if it is more convenient. Numbering is illustrated in this section.
NOTE: Do not pierce the plug wire insulation with HEI; it will cause a miss. The best method is an inductive pickup timing light.
Clean off the timing marks and mark the pulley or damper notch and timing scale with white chalk.
Disconnect and plug the vacuum line at the distributor on models with a carburetor. This is done to prevent any distributor vacuum advance. On fuel injected models, disengage the timing connector which comes out of the harness conduit next to the distributor, this will put the system in the bypass mode. Check the underhood emission sticker for any other hoses or wires which may need to be disconnected.
Start the engine and adjust the idle speed to that specified on the Underhood Emissions label. With automatic transmission, set the specified idle speed in Park. It will be too high, since it is normally (in most cases) adjusted in Drive. You can disconnect the idle solenoid, if any, to get the speed down. Otherwise, adjust the idle speed screw.The tachometer connects to the TACH terminal on the distributor and to a ground on models with a carburetor. On models with fuel injection, the tachometer connects to the TACH terminal on the ignition coil. Some tachometers must connect to the TACH terminal and to the positive battery terminal. Some tachometers won’t work with HEI.
WARNING Never ground the HEI TACH terminal; serious system damage will result.
Aim the timing light at the pointer marks. Be careful not to touch the fan, because it may appear to be standing still. If the pulley or damper notch isn’t aligned with the proper timing mark (see the Underhood Emissions label), the timing will have to be adjusted.
NOTE: TDC or Top Dead Center corresponds to 0ï¿½B, or BTDC, or Before Top Dead Center may be shown as BEFORE. A, or ATDC, or After Top Dead Center may be shown as AFTER.
Loosen the distributor base clamp locknut. You can buy trick wrenches which make this task a lot easier.
Turn the distributor slowly to adjust the timing, holding it by the body and not the cap. Turn the distributor in the direction of rotor rotation to retard, and against the direction of rotation to advance.
Tighten the locknut. Check the timing again, in case the distributor moved slightly as you tightened it.
Reinstall the distributor vacuum line or the timing connector. Correct the idle speed.
The parking brake will not release, pedal stuck. It worked for hours, but could not get it. I did not want to do too much without guide. any tips ? thanks
The Parking brake system consists of the a brake lever, two cables, adjuster and brake shoes. In order to determine if the lever itself is at fault disconnect the cable and test.
Park Brake Lubrication
Clean and lubricate the park brake lever assembly using Lubriplate GM P/N 1050109 or the equivalent.
Plastic coated parking brake cables do not need periodic lubrication. However, before performing service that involves the adjuster, perform the following steps:
•Clean the exposed threads on each side of the nut.
Important Lubricate the threads of the adjusting rod before turning the nut
•Lubricate the threads of the adjusting rod using Lubriplate GM P/N 1050109 or the equivalent.
The park brake must be adjusted any time the park brake cables have been replaced or disconnected, if the park brake shoes have been replaced or if under heavy foot pressure the pedal travel is less than half the pedal total travel. Before adjusting the park brake, check the condition of the service brakes.
Raise the vehicle and support the vehicle with safety stands.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Take off the caliper and the rotor.
Remove the park brake cable from the park brake lever.
Adjust the shoe diameter using the adjuster nut.
Turn the adjuster nut clockwise to increase the diameter until the rear wheel will not rotate without excessive force in a forward direction.
Connect the park brake cable to the park brake lever.
yes i was told that i could take my transfer case (that is a two wire plug-in to encoder) and use a 6 wire transfer case but just change the encoder motor on it with the one off of my… and put the two wire encode on that transfer case.. will this really work…. will the pcm still read and work right. i no it has to be able to read the pwm ,pm ,rpm,vss, and hell who no;s i don’t thats y im here asking hope some one give me some info. on this thanks gene
Since you are still using the same electronics, I don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work. The computer won’t even know you have changed anything and should work just fine.
I was tracing some wires from my transfer case and ended up under the dash driver side.. any ways I found a fuse box just above the info. plug the box has 4 fuses in it there marked micro 1,2,3,4 can any one tell me what they are and what they run (or do ) my Haynes book don’t tell me sh_ _ but these cheap books never really do tell you or show you much .. thanks
I have to agree with you on the Haynes manuals. These days they are not half as good as they once where. If you want Up to date vehicle specific information I recommend an Online Auto Repair Manual. They have more information than you could ever need. They include a full set of wiring diagrams and repair estimator. Well worth the money in my opinion.
On to the fuse box. The fuses should be covered in your owners manual. To find the specific page you can look up “fuses” in the index at the back of the manual. If you do not have a manual you may view yours online for free.
Due to oil pressure gauge at 0, replaced oil pressure sensor 1.5 years ago, fixed problem until 2 weeks ago. Replaced sensor again, fixed for 1 week but then again read 0. Oil level is ok, engine sounds good and runs fine.It is a 2006 GMC Envoy, 5.3 liter, 156k miles. Suggestion? thanks
If there is a ticking noise, the oil pressure may actually be low oil pressure. If the engine seems normal other than the light being on lets dig deeper. The sensor has been giving you some issues which is normal. I would think since you have had to replace it several times there may be an issue with the wiring or the connection at the sensor.
What to Try First, Low Oil Pressure
Have someone sit in the vehicle and watch the oil light/gauge. Perform the wiggle test by wiggling the wires and the connection at the oil pressure sending unit. You may refer to the wiring diagram to help trace any wiring issue you encounter.
My all wheel drive is not working. I just have rear wheel drive. I need to find out how the all wheel drive is wired. Where dose the transfer case get powered from. How does the all wheel drive stay in all wheel drive and how dose the wiring run (to what or from what relay)?
Power is delivered from the transmission (1) to the input shaft (2). The input shaft (2) is splined to the rear output shaft (7). To deliver the power to the rear propeller shaft (9), the power is constant through the rear output shaft (7). When power is required for the front propeller shaft (11), a command is sent to the encoder motor (13). The encoder motor (13) rotates the shift detent lever (12), which is cam shaped. The cam action moves the clutch lever (3). The clutch lever (3) pivots on the clutch lever pivot studs, and moves toward the clutch apply plate to engage the clutch. As more pressure is applied to the clutch apply plate, the clutch discs are compressed. Using the inner clutch discs, which are engaged with the clutch hub (4), and the outer clutch discs, which are engaged with clutch housing (5), the power flow is delivered to the clutch housing (5). The clutch hub (4) is splined to the rear output shaft (7). The clutch housing (5) rotates on a needle bearing on the rear output shaft (7). The chain drive sprocket (6) is splined to the clutch housing (5). The power flows from the drive sprocket (6), through the chain (9), to the chain driven sprocket. The chain driven sprocket is splined to the front output shaft (10). The power flow is delivered to the front propshaft (11) through the front output shaft (10).
New Venture Gear 136 Automatic Transfer Case
During normal driving situations, the Auto 4WD mode is active. During the Auto 4WD mode, the transfer case shift control module monitors rear wheel slip speed, based on the inputs from both the front and rear propshaft speed sensors. When the vehicle experiences a rear wheel slip condition, the transfer case shift control module sends a pulse width modulated (PWM) signal to an electronic motor, transfer case encoder motor. This motor rotates the transfer case sector shaft, applying a clutch pack. This clutch pack is designed to deliver a variable amount of torque, normally delivered to the rear wheels, and transfers it to the front wheels. Torque is then ramped up to the front wheels, until the front propshaft speed sensor matches that of the rear propshaft speed sensor. Torque is then ramped down, until torque is completely removed from the front wheels or until rear wheel slip is once again detected. The process then repeats.
View the list of major components that make up the automatic transfer case (ATC) system below.
SERVICE Indicator (4WD/AWD) Lamp
The SERVICE indicator (4WD/AWD) lamp is an integral part of the cluster and cannot be serviced separately. This lamp is used to inform the driver of malfunctions within the automatic transfer case (ATC) system. The SERVICE indicator (4WD/AWD) lamp is controlled by the transfer case shift control module via a Class 2 message or by a Service Indicator Control circuit.
Transfer Case Encoder Motor
The transfer case encoder motor consists of a permanent magnet (PM) DC motor and gear reduction assembly. It is located on the left hand side of the transfer case. When activated, it turns the sector shaft of the transfer case to shift the transfer case and to apply the clutch that applies the front propshaft. The encoder motor is controlled with a pulse width modulated (PWM) circuit provided by the transfer case shift control module. This circuit consists of a power supply relay, Motor Control A, and supplies voltage to the motor. The Motor Control B circuit is a PWM driver that varies the duty cycle to control the amount of current through the motor to ground. The transfer case encoder motor can be turned ON and OFF using a scan tool. You may also monitor Motor Control A and B circuits using a scan tool.
Transfer Case Shift Control Module
The transfer case shift control module uses the VIN information for calculations that are required for the different calibrations used based on axle ratio, transmission, tire size, and engine. The system does not know which calibration to use without this information. This information is provided to the transfer case shift control module via Class 2 data bus from the powertrain control module (PCM). The transfer case shift control module monitors front and rear propshaft speed as well as controlling the operation of the transfer case encoder motor assembly.
Transfer Case Speed Sensors
There are three speed sensors mounted on the transfer case. 2 speed sensors are mounted on the rear output shaft and one on the front output shaft. Each speed sensor is a permanent magnet (PM) generator. The PM generator produces an AC voltage. The AC voltage level and number of pulses increases as speed increases.
Front Propshaft Speed Sensor – The transfer case shift control module converts the pulsating AC voltage from the front transfer case speed sensor to front propshaft speed, in RPM to be used for calculations, and to monitor the difference between the front and rear sensor speed. It is also used in the AUTO 4WD mode to determine the amount of slip and the percent of torque to apply to the front axle. The front propshaft speed can be displayed with a scan tool.
Rear Propshaft Speed Sensor – The transfer case shift control module converts the pulsating AC voltage from the rear transfer case speed sensor to a rear propshaft speed, in RPM to be used for calculations. The rear propshaft speed can be displayed with a scan tool.
Vehicle Speed Sensor – One of the 2 speed sensors on the rear output shaft is the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) input to the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM sends this information to the transfer case shift control module via the Class 2 serial data bus.