My car acts like it doesn’t want to go over 35 mph, and it won’t go past 3000 rpm. Sometimes it acts like I’m not pushing on the gas pedal. Then sometimes the rpm will keep going up, but the speed of the car will continue to reduce. While the car is in neutral or park, the rpm’s won’t go past 2000. After I get it about a mile down the road it will start going faster.
Description of Problem: 1995 Mazda b4000 v6 4×4 rough idle to the point where engine jumps but does not shut off when the accelerator is pushed the problem stops it only happens accelerator is not pressed. At stop lights in park etc. Replaced throttle position sensor and egr pressure sensor and the problem still persists. Could this be the egr valve causing this? Check engine light codes read p0402 p1121 p0102 p0174 p0171
How to replace fuel injectors
my tension pulley goes around but wont move up and down on the bracket behind it…what wrong so I no what part to get..
Mazda 323 Astina 1994. My car has progressively gotten worse over the past 2 weeks on start up. Until now it doesn’t seem to want to start properly at all. When the key is in ignition the revs are irrational between 500-3000, jumping up and down. The sound it makes is a jittery choking noise as it revs up and down. It feels as though it constantly wants to stall.
As for the White smoke… This has become a common feature on start up of the car but only on the first use of the day… Whether that would be in the morning afternoon or evening. It doesn’t smell sweet and lasts for a minute or so. I havent notice any difference in the coolant level. I did fill up the engine oil recently as the light was showing on the dash… The level of the engine oil is between the F and L lines. Non of the fluids/liquids seem to be odd eg mixed oil and water, milky etc. any ideas as to what this might be would be much appreciated!
my wife started driving the car the battery light came on about 40 minutes later the ABS came on then the radio cut out in about 5 minutes after all this the car died and what could it possibly be that gave out
I was driving my car, and suddenly the check engine light appeared. I went to a mechanic, and after he checked the error using the specialized computer, he found the error was the catalizador filter. I’ve changed it to a brand new one, but still gives me the same error. HELP
I went to start my car and nothing happened, no power at all. I turned the key and tried to move it into gear but it wouldn’t move. I put a band new battery in it just a month ago. One time after that it wouldn’t start and a jump didn’t help when someone came along and told me to put it in neutral and it started. Since then i have had to do that a few times. Now this. Help…
Didn’t drive it much then when I went to start it the engine turned over but died. Replaced the battery, starter (twice), main fuse, new plugs and coils, changed fuel injectors but now the dash lights come on bright but engine wont turn over. What do I need to do to get it started?
I really need some help. I have a Mazda 6i Touring 2009 (2.5L, 4Cyl.) with an engine failure. I don’t have any power. When I press on the gas, the revs go up but the car is slow to accelerate, hesitates and I get a CEL. So, I connected the car to an OBDII reader and got these two codes; P0403 and P2188.
I then went to my mechanic (I live in the Dominican Republic) and had the vehicle tuned-up. I did an oil change, spark plugs change (The 2 in the middle were black, burned. The other 2 were OK) and a radiator flush. The car was still having the same problem so we decided to clean the MAF sensor, the throttle body and the EGR valve. Also, the air filter is OK.
After putting everything back in place, he also checked for a vacuum leak but didn’t find any.
we went for a ride and at first, it seemed a little bit better but after the car got warmer, same problem… I connected the car again and we got 3 more codes; P061B, P0300 and P2187. He deleted the EGR valve and we went for a ride to see if it was the problem but it felt the same.
He then decided to go for the injectors.
After listening to the injectors, he found that the two in the middle are pulsating a lot faster than the other two on each side. So, this is probably why the system is too rich…
My mechanic connected a system to clean the injectors, took the rail out and tested them and said they were working fine, they are not clogged and have no leaks. He then switched the injectors to make sure. He put the 2 in the middle at the extremities and vice-versa. Same thing, the two in the middle were pulsating a lot faster than the other two even after being changed. So, this proved that the problem is not the injectors.
He took the new spark plugs out to check and the two in the middle were black burned while the other two were perfect. He also switched the coils just to see and the problem remains.
He doesn’t know what else to try…
I’m lost, I really need help. I love this car and I just want it to run perfectly.
Even bought another PCM and programmed it to see if that was the problem but no, it does the same with the other PCM connected.
And same codes come out. Here with a freeze frame:
Confirmed Trouble Codes
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected (Powertrain, Generic)
P0403: Exhaust Gas Recirculation “A” Control Circuit (Powertrain, Generic)
P2188: System Too Rich at Idle (Bank 1) (Powertrain, Generic)
Pending Trouble Codes
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected (Powertrain, Generic)
P0403: Exhaust Gas Recirculation “A” Control Circuit (Powertrain, Generic)
P2178: System Too Rich Off Idle (Bank 1) (Powertrain, Generic)
P2188: System Too Rich at Idle (Bank 1) (Powertrain, Generic)
Permanent Trouble Codes
-none
Freeze Frame
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected (Powertrain, Generic)
Fuel system status: Fuel system 1: Open loop (2)
Fuel system status: Fuel system 2: NA
Calculated engine load: 72.9 %
Engine Coolant Temperature: 82 °C
Short Term Fuel Trim – Bank 1: 0.0 %
Long Term Fuel Trim – Bank 1: 0.0 %
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 79.0 kPa
Engine RPM: 3297 RPM
Vehicle Speed Sensor: 108 km/h
Ignition Timing Advance for #1 Cylinder: 28.0
Intake Air Temperature: 34 °C
Air Flow Rate from Mass Flow Sensor: 51.34 g/s
Absolute Throttle Position: 30.2 %
Time Since Engine Start: 749 s
Commanded EGR: 0.0 %
Commanded Evaporative Purge: 0.0 %
Fuel Level Input: 40.0 %
Number of warm-ups since DTCs cleared: 0
Distance traveled since DTCs cleared: 15 km
Evap System Vapor Pressure: 7.3 Pa
Barometric Pressure: 101 kPa
Catalyst Temperature Bank 1, Sensor 1: 858 °C
Control module voltage: 13.45 V
Absolute Load Value: 65.1 %
Fuel/Air Commanded Equivalence Ratio: 1.000
Relative Throttle Position: 20.8 %
Ambient Air Temperature: 33 °C
Absolute Throttle Position B: 30.2 %
Accelerator Pedal Position D: 33.7 %
Accelerator Pedal Position E: 16.9 %
Commanded Throttle Actuator Control: 25.1 %
Why are only those 2 middle injectors receiving a signal to squirt more gas than the other two? What is going on?
What could be the problem???