I’ve taken my car to a million mechanics (including the dealership) and there’s some electrical problem causing my low beams not to work. I adjusted my high beams so they point as low as possible. Is this ok? Will I still blind people?
Of course the best course of action would be to fix the issue. (most common cause would be the Multi-function switch) I would think any headlights are better than getting a ticket for driving without them. I’m sure it won’t take to many test drives at night to find out what oncoming drivers think about your headlight adjustment.
As far as blinding people with your high beams, I can understand your concerns.
Headlight aim has been preset at the factory and should need no further adjustment.
However, if your vehicle is damaged in an accident, the headlight aim may be affected. Aim adjustment to the low-beam headlights may be necessary if it is difficult to see the lane markers (for horizontal aim), or if oncoming drivers flash their high-beam headlamps at you (for vertical aim).
If you believe your headlights need to be re-aimed, it is recommend that you take the vehicle to your dealer for service.
I have a 1962 Lincoln Continental hardtop with a 430. It was running fine until a week ago. Suddenly, out of nowhere, when you turn on the ignition, there’s a single click and nothing else. This click is coming from the external starter motor relay. I replaced the relay and I’m getting exactly the same thing. The battery is brand new and fully charged. When I turn the ignition switch, the voltage across the battery terminals drops to 12.05. So it can’t be the battery. There’s a 0.07 volt drop between the positive battery terminal and the post on the starter regardless of whether the ignition switch is turned or not. There’s a 0.00 volt drop (so no drop at all) between the negative post of the battery and the starter motor housing when the ignition is off and a 0.03 volt drop when the ignition is engaged. So if my understanding is correct, there’s no significant voltage drop. Is the starter motor broken?
Replacing the Starter motor would be the fix. This is of course after you confirm the wiring is good from the Starter solenoid to the Starter along with the connections.
Starter Motor Brush Replacement
Remove the starter from the engine.
Remove the starter drive plunger lever cover and gasket.
Loosen and remove the brush cover band and remove the brushes from their holder.
Remove the two through-bolts from the starter frame.
Separate the drive end housing, starter frame and brush end plate assemblies.
Remove the starter drive plunger lever and pivot pin, and remove the armature.
Remove the ground brush retaining screws from the frame and remove the brushes.
Cut the insulated brush leads from the field coils, as close to the field connection point as possible.
Clean and inspect the starter motor.
Replace the brush end plate if the insulator between the field brush holder and the end plate is cracked or broken.
Position the new insulated field brush leads on the field coil connection. Position and crimp the clip provided with the brushes to hold the brush leads to the connection. Solder the lead, clip, and connection together using resin core solder. Use a 300 watt soldering iron.
Install the ground brush leads to the frame with the retaining screws.
Install the starter drive plunger lever and pivot pin, and install the armature.
Assemble the drive end housing, starter frame and brush end plate assemblies.
Install the two through-bolts in the starter frame. Tighten the through-bolts to 55-75 inch lbs. (6.2-8.5 Nm).
Install the brushes in their holders and install the brush cover band.
Install the starter drive plunger lever cover and gasket.
Install the starter on the engine as previously outlined.
Initial start up car idles 1500 to 1700 open loop all good for about a minute or less. Then idle slowly drops down to 500ish, sometimes lower for a few seconds then back up to 1500. (Usually does that idle drop just once sometimes twice). Once its been idling for ten minutes or so(temp half way up on gauge) it will not drop lower unless I turn the ignition off and restart the car. Idle goes normal 870ish. Depends on how its feeling that particular moment. Also my LTFT is averaging -10 sometimes higher or a little lower. Seen the STFT get as high as -27 while live scanning. Could the car possibly not be transferring over to closed loop?
The car intermittently stalls. Sometimes during warm up, sometimes while doing 60 mph down the road and sometimes when I arrive to my location as soon as I stop and start doing the routine of parking. I’ve replaced IAC, TPS, TB gasket, IM gasket and plugs/wires. Also bled air from coolant. I keep throwing a P0420 cause manifold/converter has small crack in it right down the middle into the O2 sensor hole. Any response back with new suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
The crack in the converter may be causing an issue if it is the upstream O2 Sensor(A/F Sensor). The idle is adjustable, I will add the procedure below.
Idle Control System
The idle speed of the engine is controlled by the Idle Air Control (IAC)Valve.
The valve changes the amount of air bypassing into the intake manifold in response to electric current controlled by the ECM/PCM. When the IAC Valve is activated, the valve opens to maintain the proper idle speed.
1. After the engine starts, the IAC valve opens for a certain time. The amount of air is increased to raise the idle speed about 150 – 300 rpm.
2. When the coolant temperature is low, the IAC valve is opened to obtain the proper fast idle speed. The amount of bypassed air is thus controlled in relation to the engine coolant temperature.
1. When the idle speed is out of specification and the scan tool does not indicate Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0505 or P1508, check the following items:
Adjust the idle speed
Starter switch signal
Air conditioning signal
ALT FR signal
Brake switch signal
PSP switch signal
A/T gear position signal
Clutch switch signal
Hoses and connections
IAC valve and its mounting O-rings
2. When the above items are normal, substitute a known-good IAC valve and readjust the idle speed
If the idle speed still cannot be adjusted to specification (and the scan tool does not indicate DTC P0505 or P1508) after IAC valve replacement, substitute a known-good ECM/PCM and recheck. If symptom goes away, replace the original ECM/PCM.
I have code p1777, PCM out put malfunction.
Where I can start to check? What that code means?
Code P1777 – OPU Power Control Circuit Failure
Code P1777 is set and sent to the PCM/TCM when OPU detect error into OPU internal power control circuit.
OPU Power stack error
EOP stuck error
3-phase wiring short to VB,GND
OPU Power Control Unit Location
Code P1777 General Description
The HEV uses the hydraulic pressure that in addition to mechanical main hydraulic pump EOP (Electric oil pump) controlled by OPU (oil pump unit) to take command by PCM/TCM generates oil pressure to operate clutch and U/D brake.
When low speed driving or engine auto stop regardless of driving mode (EV mode or HEV), when hydraulic pressure becomes low because of mechanical main hydraulic pump rotation in low speed or stop, OPU supplies hydraulic pressure on U?D brake by operating EOP in order to protect Friction Element.
When shifting the driving mode from EV mode to HIV mode, EOP supplies hydraulic pressure to the engine clutch in order to use engine power when the driving mode shift is completed (Engine clutch: wet type multiple disk clutch that connect or disconnect the engine power between engine input shaft and transaxle input shaft)
What to check
According to the Manual you are to inspect the terminal and connectors first. Then check the component itself.
Thoroughly check connectors for looseness, poor connection, bending, corrosion, contamination, deterioration or damage.
In order to check the component, the manual advises to clear the code(with a scantool) after cycling the IG on and off two or three times. If the same code returns, substitute with a known-good PCM/TCM and check for proper operation. If the problem is corrected, replace PCM/TCM.
I have a leak in my clutch cylinder that holds break fluid to assist my clutch so I can shift my gears. If it gets low then I have to refill it and pump my clutch and make sure it is topped off so I can drive my truck. Once I do that and start driving and shifting it is fine. But now every time I go do drive my truck I have to do this. Where could I be leaking fluids? I can not see it up top by where I fill the container. Could it be a leak in the line or tubing? please help me. Thank you.
Leak in my clutch cylinder
There is definitely a leak if you keep having to add fluid each day. There is no leak if you only had to add fluid the one time. Having to pump it up is from air being in the system. Bleeding the system of air would correct the issue of having to pump the clutch. If you do conclude you have a leak you will need to repair it. Follow the hose from where you fill the fluid downward to see if it is wet or dripping. Then look lower toward the underside of the transmission. The slave cylinder is leaking if the hose looks and feels dry and you see fluid dripping from underneath the transmission. Therefore I have looked up the exact fit parts for your 1998 Isuzu Hombre and double checked to make sure they would fit.
1998 Isuzu Hombre Clutch Hose
1998 Isuzu Hombre Hydraulic Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch system bleeding
NOTE: Bleeding air from the hydraulic clutch system is necessary whenever any part of the system has been disconnected or the fluid level (in the reservoir) has been allowed to fall so low, that air has been drawn into the master cylinder.
Fill master cylinder reservoir with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 specifications
Have an assistant fully depress and hold the clutch pedal, then open the bleeder screw
Close the bleeder screw and have your assistant release the clutch pedal
Repeat the procedure until all of the air is evacuated from the system
Check and refill master cylinder reservoir as required to prevent air from being drawn through the master cylinder NOTE: Never release a depressed clutch pedal with the bleeder screw open or air will be drawn into the system.
Car starts and will shift from P to R to N and to D. It will not move except in D and then will not shift into any higher gear than First. The OBD II warning appears on the dash. The car cannot be pushed in N (it appears that the Parking Lock as when it is in P, does not release).
Can I do anything to allow me to move the car by manually pushing it a short distance?
Can I drive it 5 miles to the dealer in First Gear without further damaging the transmission?
The check engine light is on solid. The code P0183 which is the” fuel temperature sensor” is not happy. I have two questions about this code, where is this sensor located and what is the part number of the sensor.
I have called eight parts store and four Lincoln/ford dealers trying to get these two questions answered and got no ware. Please help me if you can to solve this baffling problem.
It is very strange that even dealers cant come up with answers. Is it possible that something else is triggering this code and it is not the fuel temperature sensor at all.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
PS: The car starts and runs just fine. 2005 Lincoln Town Car Signature series
Fuel Temperature Sensor
I went ahead and looked up the part for you. I double checked to make certain this is an exact fit for your 2005 Lincoln Town Car Signature series.
Fuel Temperature Sensor Location
The fuel temperature sensor is located on the fuel rail. It is the same sensor as the fuel pressure sensor. One vacuum line, 2 screws and one electrical plug.
Fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor electrical connector
Fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor vacuum connector
Fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor bolts (2 required)
Fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor
Fuel rail pressure and temperature sensor O-ring
Code P0183 – Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input
My car was sitting unused in a garage for about two years. I had to replace the battery, and for some reason also the alternator was bad after that time (had no issues when it was parked).
I drove it to my friend’s repair shop to get the alternator replaced, which he did. He advised me to get new gas in it and apply injector cleaner, which I did. I also applied Heet. On the way to the gas station, there was thick black exhaust, which I attribute to bad gas, because I never saw it again. I drove it back to his shop where we discussed the exhaust; he had me press on the accelerator while he was looking at something under the hood.
That is when he noticed that the heat gauge was off the charts. He had me shut it down immediately. It turned out that no coolant had been in the car the whole time, apparently it had evaporated while sitting. He had never checked it, and I would not have known to do so.
Coolant was poured into the radiator, resulting in jets of steam. This went on for a while until it was cool enough to be filled with coolant. When it was restarted, there was a terrible problem with the idle. He detected misfires on two cylinders and thought that there was serious engine damage.
The car seemed to be a loss. But later that day, he started it again, and it was completely fine. He drove it to my house. However, there is not a happy ending yet. I have a terrible issue after I have driven it a while, switch it off, and again restart it within a short time. I get issues with a very rough idle which will either 1) ‘catch’ and then the car will be fine to drive, or 2) idle rougher and rougher, until it bucks (the entire car will jolt forward and back), and eventually stall. Once I saw white smoke coming from the hood. Again, I thought that there was permanent engine damage, but upon starting the car again a couple of days later, again it was fine.
So this is a very strange problem, which affects the start mostly when the car has been recently used and driven for a period of time (a warm start). It will idle rough, ‘catch’ and then idle and drive fine, or it will degenerate into a really bad state, as I have described.
Please help. My mechanic friend is at a loss. I do not know enough about car mechanics to hazard a guess.
Idle rougher and rougher
My Advice with this one would be to pull the spark plugs and perform a compression test on the engine. This should be performed after the engine has been warmed to operating temperature. Wait as you would before it would have an issue. This will rule out a blown head gasket and give you a chance to look at the plugs. See if any of the plugs look damp or in need of replacement.
My thinking is the head gasket is blown. It is at the beginning stages and small. This would explain why only after the engine is warmed and shut off that a small amount of coolant seeps into the effected cylinders. This is just enough to cause a misfire until it has a chance to shove it out the exhaust. Then after a quick restart, the engine is able to burn any that may seep in.
I have a check engine light on. The code reader displays code P0133 O2 sensor slow response bank 1 sensor 1
I have replaced the oxygen sensor twice, the fuel cap, spark plugs, fuel filter, intake manifold gaskets. All to the tune of $1400 but the light keeps coming back on.
Using a scan tool make certain the Sensor is working. If it is not working look into the wiring harness and connections. Next check for exhaust leaks, especially if any work has been done to the exhaust.