My truck has 360/4bbl automatic. It idles and revs smooth and quick but when I put it in gear and drive, it shudders and backfires. Vacuum advance issue? New plugs wires cap rotor. I just dont know.
I Just has my starter and battery replaced in my car and yesterday I go to turn start my car and nothing I checked the fuses the starter and the battery which is at 12.5
how many quarts of tranny fluid needed with 3.9l v6 magnum
I can’t get my high beams to stay on. I pull switch back halfway and they turn on but I continue to pull the switch back to have them stay on, they turn down to this blue light. If I flick the switch again to go back to low beams, it goes to low beams and works for low beams. I can hold the switch to keep the high beams on, but I need to know what to do to get the high beams to stay on.
When I put my truck in drive or reverse, step on the gas it won’t drive I can push the had all the way to the floor and it moves a short distance very slow, like it had no power. We changed the front brakes Friday, but it drove fine Saturday. Today we pulled the air conditioning fan out from the inside of the vehicle and put it back in, and now is doing this, we’ve never had a problem like this before
Every now and then I have to rev up the rpms for the truck to start going. Once it gets going it’s fine. Any suggestions? I’ve changed transmission filter and seal already. Thanks
Last night I started it up and it started ok but with a bad vibration, so bad as to vibrate the entire cab and bed. Started it later, with lots of trouble having to crank it a few times, and attempted to drive it. I got to the end of the street and took my foot off the gas to turn it and it stalled. Got it going again and again it stalled when i took my foot off the gas. It does have white smoke coming out of the exhaust that smells like unspent gas, and it has white smoke coming out of the engine itself but that smoke is intermittent. I have changed the spark plugs, swapped the battery, and checked the fuel injectors. The injectors are functioning correctly and the battery swap had no effect as did the new plugs. I also ran a test to see if the head gasket was broken. Took the cap off the coolant and cranked it to see if the coolant came up out of the pipe. It did not so it leads me to believe there is no excess pressure in the head gasket but I still smell the gas in the exhaust. I am thoroughly bested and I need some help.
What would cause the brake to be hard and the push button not to start the vehicle? Normally to start the vehicle I have to push the brake down and hit the push button and it starts. The push button is making a click noise and the check engine light appears to be on.
I just replaced spark plugs and wires, distributor cap, rotor button, pickup module, throttle position sensor, relays, fuel pump and finally the pcm after learning of the design flaw that causes them to overheat repeatedly. After driving for about 30 mins all the gauges in the dash stopped working, the ABS light, air bag and gas light came on and the engine was still running. When I pressed the gas pedal it would sputter (work, then not work) repeatedly like it was getting gas and then not getting any and I had 3/4 tank of gas. Got home and I could smell gas fumes on driver side. A friend took a look and said the fuel line clip is loose. I don’t know if all of these problems are due to the fuel line issue or if the new pcm I just spent $400 on is faulty. Please help.