I have been working on a blown head gasket replacement for this engine. (Mysteriously the head & block were not warped – so I replaced thermostat & water pump hoping that an overheat caused it to blow)
I have gotten to the rebuild & put the cams back in. When I went to turn the engine over to check for interference with the pistons & valves it does get stuck at one point. The last idiot tried to do some work on the engine & had removed the crank pulley. It seems to have all gone back together with the timing marks on the cam gears matching the chain marks.
I have no idea how to move on. Any thoughts?
You stated that something is getting stuck. This sounds like something is hitting internally. Taking it back apart would be the next step.I am thinking you may need to check for a bent valve or just re-check timing.
Make sure to follow the rule of turning the engine over several times to check your timing is good before assembling the rest of the engine.
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I purchased a used 2015 Infiniti Q40 in November 22, 2018 with 39, 454 miles. To the date the mileage on the care is 45,801 miles. I don’t drive the car often as I have another car that is my primary car. About two weeks ago I noticed that my tire pressure, traction and brake lights started coming on each time I drove it. That prompted me to reach out to my warranty company because I’m thinking this is something electrical. Needless to say they refer me to a dealer to have the car inspected and I do just that.
The Dealerships Response
The findings were that the issue wasn’t mechanical but instead that my rear brakes were so worn down that they were beginning to cut into my rotors. They also said that my drive belt was severely worn. Per the advisor at the dealership these are issues that happen around the 25,000 mile mark and I haven’t even made it to 10,000. I am instantly upset because based on this information it sounds as though these were issues that were overlooked by the dealership that sold me my car.
My question is from a professional standpoint is it possible to wear down rear brakes and rotors and a drive belt in 9 months only haven driven the car 6,347 miles or are these pre-existing issues? I am very clear that the car is used and there can be general wear and tear but of this magnitude in this period of time? I was also informed by three different reps at the purchasing dealership that my brakes and rotors were flagged on the inspection report.
A used component is not going to last as long as a NEW component. If the vehicles brakes were NEW and the belt was NEW to begin with I could see the issue. However this is more of a “what is covered under the warranty” issue. I’m guessing if the dealership would like to continue your business relationship they may offer to wave the labor cost of the repair but I can not speak on their behalf.
Symptoms: Passenger front caliper not braking as hard as driver front caliper. Car pulls left, but not dramatically. It is easy to get the ABS to kick in by braking hard, and the driver side front tire is first to lose traction under hard braking, makes hard gripping and skidding sounds when doing so. Passenger front caliper is very hard to bleed — requires very hard pedal press to get fluid out. Actions taken: Mechanics have replaced pads/rotors. Said system was fine. Since giving up on mechanics, I have rebuilt the right-front caliper, and eventually changed out all calipers with a factory rebuilt, and symptom persists. Replaced all flexible lines when replacing calipers, problem persists. More symptoms: Driver side tire wears faster, passenger side brake pads are wearing more slowly. Problem has persisted for several years, three mechanics have worked on it and have been unable to resolve. (Actually they claim there’s nothing wrong after working on it, but the symptoms are pretty clear.)
Additional info.: Rotors on car now are about two years old. Have tried going back to the stock rotors, then re-replaced with these aftermarket rotors. No noticeable difference. 96K miles on car. As enumerated above, I’ve rebuilt the problem caliper, purchased a rebuilt caliper, same results. I’ve also replaced all the brake lines, but not the hard lines that run throughout the car, just the flexible part. I’ve also flushed the fluid, replaced rotors and pads.
Pulls when braking
I would start by looking for a bent or kinked brake line going to the problem caliper side. This is based on you mentioning that it is hard to bleed on that side. This would indicate a restriction. The brake system is hydraulic and thus should provide the same pressure throughout. You should be able to bleed both sides with ease. In fact you should be able to crack the bleeder and gravity should allow the fluid to come out. Typically when one caliper works and the other does not there is air in the system. If there is a restriction or kinked brake line, this can happen as well. I have seen a similar issue like this once and the cause was from the caliper being put on in a manner that twisted the caliper hose the wrong way. Might check that also.
I have a power steering issue where the fluid level drops dramatically once car has been driven for 40-45 minutes (to the point the reservoir is almost empty). The strange part is the fluid returns to the reservoir over a short period of time after shutting engine down. No visible leaks on the system. Possible air being sucked in? I’ve checked and don’t see a lot of bubbling or froth in the system when this happens. I’ve bled the systems several times.
Power Steering Fluid Level
The power steering system holds 1.15 quarts of Nissan Power Steering fluid or equivalent.
The fluid level should be checked with the engine off. Check for generation of air bubbles and cloud in fluid. When none are found, you are good. If bubbles or cloud are noticed then the system needs to be bled.
If air bubbles and cloud don’t fade, stop engine, hold air bleeding until air bubbles and cloud fade. Then bleed again until no air bubbles return. Each time holding until the bubbles fade.
Air Bleeding Power Steering System
Stop engine, and then turn steering wheel fully to the right and left several times.
Run engine at idle speed. Turn steering wheel fully to the right and then fully to the left, and keep for about three seconds. Then check whether any fluid leakage occurred.
Repeat several times at about three second intervals.
Check for bubble generation or cloud in fluid.
If air bubbles and the cloud don’t fade, stop engine, hold off on air bleeding until air bubbles fade. Perform the 2nd and 3rd procedures again.
I need to find out the location of the Exhaust Camshaft Position Sensor Bank 1 on a 2008 Infiniti EX35. My engine stalls sometimes when trying to accelerate from a stop or sometimes it will stall when stopping. Only does when warmed up. Would the camshaft sensor cause this problem? The code read says the exhaust camshaft sensor bank 1 was sensed being out of parameters for a determined time.
Would be nice to know the code? I am guessing P0340. Sure it could have an influence on the problem.
The camshaft position sensors are located under the intake manifold. Therefore you will need to remove a few things to gain access.
I have an overheating problem when I turn on my A/C within 5 minutes my car is overheating. It is a 2003 Infiniti G35 with a 3.5 liter engine. I have had the water pump replaced and have also replaced the thermostat.
Sounds like your high speed fan isn’t coming on. Since your car only has one cooling fan the speed is controlled with separate relays. Your vehicle has 3 separate relays to control the fan speed. The fan must be operational itself as it does not overheat unless you are running your air conditioning. Most likely one of the three relays is no longer functioning. I double checked to make sure this relay will fit your 203 Infiniti G35. They just pop in and out similar to a fuse. They are conveniently located in the under hood power distribution module engine room.
Anytime the coolant level becomes low the heat will not work. If the coolant level is full , check both heater hoses to see if they are too hot to touch. If they are, your heater core is clogged and will need to be replaced.
I have a 2005 Infiniti G35 (3.5L) with 140K. My fuel gauge has started to read near full at all times and give me P0462 error codes. I replaced both the driver side fuel sensor unit and the passenger side unit (part of the fuel pump assembly). This had no effect on the problem. I still get P0462 errors and the fuel gauge isn’t working correctly. I self tested the instrument cluster and everything tested OK. I also put an Ohm meter on the fuel sensors (both units) while manually changing the float position and I did see the Ohm readings change on both units. I don’t know where to go from here. Any help would be greatly appreciated.