The car started to idle at 6,000RPM’s when it was started and when put in gear it idled at 4000RPM’s. Last week our mechanic changed the idle air sensor valve and it was ok for a few days. Now the car idles at 6000RPM’s and will not go faster than 25mph. The Check Transmission light on the dash is on and the fluid in the transmission checks ok. He say’s the transmission went into emergency mode and the cost to repair it will be in the thousands of dollars. Any suggestions?
I am having turn signal problems. The hazards work fine but when I use my blinker to turn left or right the front lights blink fine but the the left blinker and right blinker and brake lights all blink at same time. What would be causing this?
I can’t get it to idle down
Usually on the highway, my vehicle will show the warning light (Master vehicle electrical hazard warning lamp) with the message “Stop Safely Now” and will power down and I have to pull over. So I pull over, turn off the power, and sit for a couple of minutes, and then start it up again and go a little bit farther till it happens again. Sometimes it might only do it a couple of times and other times it may do it 15 times until I can get it home. My husband had an R&R sensor replaced at a Ford dealership awhile back and we thought that it had fixed the problem. I have driven it on a trip of 1500 miles and it never once gave me this problem, but recently it has started to act up again and I am hesitant to get it back out on the highway. Any ideas?
what would cause my car to stop shifting without lifting your foot off of the gas to make it shift and now its blowing white sweet smelling smoke, a lot of smoke when you rev the motor which is running just fine “a bad vale body”
I have a 1987 grand marquis with a 302 engine- 467,000 miles. Engine seal replaced twice- once at 105k and again at 295k. Rebuilt trans at 387,000 miles due to 4th gear being junk.
I have been having a couple of issues with starting and constant running. First let me describe my issue with starting:
When the car doesn’t start when you attempt it: It just sits there spinning. Like there is no ignition/no catch. But the starter is engaging. So far it has been completely random in terms of timing and weather. It seems the only way to get it to start is to play with it. This can range from hitting the gas to turning the car in the run position and moving the shift lever back and fourth. Also attempting to start the car in “N” sometimes works.
Now when the car just shuts off or dies:
This has happened to me a couple of times now… You will be driving maybe holding a constant speed or maybe a slow acceleration. And the car will just die. Nothing- boom dead. No noise, no shaking, no hum, no back lace, just dead. When you try to START the car it doesn’t start. Starter engages but there is no ignition or catch.
Things we have changed and replaced since the start of this issue:
-oil (for the heck of it)
-oil filter-spark plugs
-spark plug wires
-battery leads- including cleaning the battery leads and cleaning the starting solidend
-Component on the side of the Distributor (not sure of the name of it) – it controls the timings?
-Also changed the “COIL” pack part – (that connects the the middle spark plug wire in the middle of the distributor)
-Checked for bare or broken wires leading to or away from the distributor- repaired if damaged
** NOTE: When ever the car was not able to start. We did check to see if the fuel pump was turning on or was active. The fuel pump as far as we can tell is perfectly fine. Except it does have over 400k miles… But yea…
At this point we have no idea what is causing this. If any one has any ideas that would be great. I don’t really want to get rid of this car for possibly a dumb problem. Father bought the car in 87 before my parents got married. I was even taken to and from the hospital with it, and run across the back seat when i was younger. So this car has a lot of memory’s. So far the local Ford dealer doesn’t even want to look at this car and local repair shops have no idea what it could be. They just want to throw parts at it and get it out the door. But that doesn’t help me when I’m an hr away from home and this happens. She’s been good to my family and I want to be nice back to her. ^_^
Thank you for your help in advance!
do i have to remove the intake manifold to replace the bypass hose
i have no driveability. i have changed spark plugs and switched out my 1996 cougar mass air flow sensor to see if any change and there wasnt. i dropped exhaust to c if cats wereclogged no change in problem. i unplug the the mass air flow sensor and i have driveability ne bogging what can i do next im lost?????
Just got a 99 Merc. C-280 it came with no manual, changed the spark plugs, to give it a tune up, it is still sluggish, got it checked, coil pack #2 bad, if I am looking down at the engine where would coil pack #2 be located, also could it be possible that if the codes were not properly cleared out, can the computer cause the same problem, and or if the CEU is bad can it effect one or more coil packs, or would a DIO identify that the computer is bad.
Thanks to all who can help with this….
Had my son’s car towed to the shop on Friday because it stalled on him twice. On his check up sheet in August 2010, the only thing needing attention was his serpentine belt; everything else was green.
After they checked the vehicle, they reported that the timing belt needed to be changed. Some other things they noted was the front brakes and the rotors needed to be changed, transmission flushed, new spark plugs. Is it possible for all this to go wrong in the space of two months?
1998 Mercury Tracer, 4 cylinder automatic