153346 miles. Has been running fine until last night driving at about 35 degrees F in rain going upgrade in overdrive the car starts to shake between 45 and 65 mph. Fuel tank reads 1/4 remaining. Let off foot feed and the car stops shaking. Does not stop shaking for miles on flat or upgrade terrain when foot feed is depressed. Lock out of overdrive and the shaking stops regardless of terrain. Re-fuelled within 20 miles of start of the shaking. After re-fuelling car runs well in overdrive with no shaking for the 20-mile remainder of our journey. Spark plugs have never been replaced. Would poor fuel cause this problem? Should I use a fuel additive?
For the last couple of months when turning off the vehicle I had to turn off the interior lights button which also turned off dash lighting. If I did not do this the interior lights would remain on. An no it was not clicked all the way up. Also, occasionally the door open signal would illuminate and after a check of all doors found that turn on the interior light switch and then off would cancel that alert. Today my car would not start. There is a mild “want” to start. But after attempt to start the instrument panel flutters for a few seconds. Is this a computer issue?
I have a charging problem, all indicators was it was the alternator, replaced the alternator still not charging, what could this be?
Left rear brake light not working, all other lights working corectly.
engine cranks wont start no obd codes new fuel pump with 50 psi at fuel rail and new spark plugs that spark
I am continuing my brake repair. I had to replace the parking brake shoes too. The linings were essentially gone.
The driver’s side parking brake cable was disconnected from the parking brake lever so it was possible to install the brake shoes on the driver’s side. I got the cable connected to the parking brake lever on the driver’s side after taking the tension off the parking brake cable at the parking brake adjuster clip. On the passenger side the parking brake cable was still connected. After shortening the star adjuster to its shortest length I was still not able to assemble the brake shoes. I finally removed the passenger side parking brake cable from the parking brake lever and was able to assemble the parking brake. I cannot compress the spring on the parking brake rear cable enough to install the parking brake rear cable to the parking brake lever.
1. Installing the brake shoe retaining clip was very difficult. What is the best way to install these brake shoe hold down clips? Is there a special tool?
2. Do you have suggestions for compressing the parking brake rear cable spring so I can attach it to the parking brake lever? Is there a special tool for this application?
3. I do not have a brake adjusting gauge. What is the best way to adjust the brake shoe clearance? How about tightening the star wheel until the shoe touches the drum and then backing off eight notches? This was the procedure I used on my ’92 Crown Victoria.
4. Is it necessary to “bed the shoes to the drum” on the 02 Mercury? It was recommended in my ’92 Crown Victoria’ Haynes Repair manual
Rear brake pad wear pattern. I pulled the rear brake discs from the car. The driver side inside disc pad lining was completely worn out. The outside disc pad lining was in very good condition. Both passenger side disc pad lining were in good condition too. A related issue is the parking brake cable was disconnected on the driver’s side. All four parking brake shoe linings were worn out. I have ordered new ceramic disc pads and hardware. I have ordered new metallic parking brake shoes and hardware. I will have the rotors turned if possible to do so and remain within specifications. Rotors that cannot be machined will be replaced. What can I do to prevent uneven wear pattern issues on the new disc pads?
I got a C.E.L. [check engine light] on 02 Mercury grand Marquis while at regular operating temperature on a 30 degree F day. Engine had been running for 2 hours when the wife said the light appeared. I drove the car on two occasions, 70 miles each and the C.E.L. remained on. I went to the parts store and they read the OBD code =P0125 “Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop control”. I turned off the C.E.L. using their OBD reader. Engine coolant level is topped off [< 1qt added]. I drove the car on two days and the C.E.L. light did not appear. I do not know what the instrument panel temperature gauge reading is on these trips.
On 3rd day, with outside air temperature at 27 degrees F, C.E.L. appears. Engine temperature gauge on the instrument panel is at the very bottom of the range. I assume that the thermostat is stuck open but heater is keeping us comfortable.
My 2002 Ford workshop manual tells me to conduct a ‘thermostat electrical test’.
Remove engine coolant temperature [ECT] sensor harness connector
Attach ECT sensor “T” cable as a jumper between ECT sensor and the power train control module [PTC].
I cannot find the ECT sensor.
I have found the PTC but it has a mass of wires. Perhaps making that connection properly is far beyond my pay-grade. There is no thermostat heater on the car.
The original equipment thermostat is $10. Should I forget about the electrical test and replace the thermostat or am I headed down the wrong diagnosis path?
The car started to idle at 6,000RPM’s when it was started and when put in gear it idled at 4000RPM’s. Last week our mechanic changed the idle air sensor valve and it was ok for a few days. Now the car idles at 6000RPM’s and will not go faster than 25mph. The Check Transmission light on the dash is on and the fluid in the transmission checks ok. He say’s the transmission went into emergency mode and the cost to repair it will be in the thousands of dollars. Any suggestions?
I am having turn signal problems. The hazards work fine but when I use my blinker to turn left or right the front lights blink fine but the the left blinker and right blinker and brake lights all blink at same time. What would be causing this?