Oct 312017
 

KIA Sorento

My car was in the garage when Irma hit. There was 4 feet of water in my house and etc. Now my lights come on by them selves and locks by them selves etc


My car was hit by Hurricane Irma

The only thing you can do is to disconnect the battery and try to dry everything out. It will need to be put in a closed room and a dehumidifier run with the temperature above 80 degrees. It may take a week or two or even longer to get everything to dry out. Moisture and electronics don’t mix. Then you will need to check all fluid to make sure they are not overfilled and or contaminated, including the fuel tank.

In most cases this car will be covered under insurance. Contact them first if you wish to file a claim.

2007 Ford Fusion SEL V6 3.0L Airbag Light On With B2290 Code

 Auto Repair Questions, Ford  Comments Off on 2007 Ford Fusion SEL V6 3.0L Airbag Light On With B2290 Code
Oct 312017
 

2007 Ford Fusion

Airbag Light Code B2290

It has airbag warning light turns on & passenger air bag light goes off, after few seconds of ignition/engine on. I hooked up the scanner and it gives B2290 code stating Occupant Classification System fault. Then I tried erasing the code but unable to do it as it comes right back on. I unplugged the wiring to OCM (or occupant detection / weight) sensor part#14B422 underneath the passenger seat, and then ofcourse U1900 came which says SRS module fault, but then I was able to erase the B2290 code, and not U1900. I also took it to a body shop as they have high end diagnostic tools, and they said recalibrating the OCM sensor should fix the issue, they tried to recalibrate it two times was successfully completed but the code didn’t go away. So they are suspecting that OCM sensor could be bad itself, and need to be replaced.
Its an expensive part $180, I don’t want to just replace it, if its really not required. Looking for 2nd opinion or suggestion to how to really identify the problem part.

Airbag warning light turns on

It has airbag warning light turns on & passenger air bag light goes off, after few seconds of ignition/engine on. I hooked up the scanner and it gives B2290 code stating Occupant Classification System fault. I tried erasing the code, but unable to do it as it comes right back on. Then unplugged the wiring to OCM (or occupant detection / weight) sensor part#14B422 underneath the passenger seat. And then of course U1900 came which says SRS module fault but I was able to erase the B2290 code and not U1900.

Then I took it to a body shop as they have high end diagnostic tools and they said re-calibrating the OCM sensor should fix the issue. They tried to recalibrate it two times was successfully completed but the code didn’t go away. So they are suspecting that OCM sensor could be bad itself and need to be replaced. Of course they didn’t allow me to watch the process they are doing so I don’t have full details on what all they did.

Inquired with dealership

I inquired with dealership over phone about it and as per them following spec. It needs to replace all 4 sensors underneath the seat including rail sensors and all. So I can’t even locate those 4 sensors they talked about at fordparts.com with my car details. I also couldn’t locate those many plugs & sensors underneath the passenger seat in my car. So I am not sure how much to trust that information.

Its an expensive part $180. I don’t want to just replace it if its really not required. And thus may not fix the problem. Looking for 2nd opinion or suggestion to how to really identify the problem part. And if there is a way to test if the sensor is really bad by jumping/shorting the wires, resistance test etc. etc.


Ford Code B2290

Occupant Classification System Fault which is the weight sensor in the passenger front seat. The weight sensor may need to be reset with a Ford diagnostic computer if the seat was replaced.

If you swapped the entire seat the new sensor needs calibrated.

Ford states that whole bottom part of the seat has to be replaced with module+sensor factory installed for it to work. So replacing only bladder or module wont work.

 

Oct 312017
 

2011 Hyundai Active

Put the key in the ignition nothing happens

I have a 2011 Hyundai i20 active 2dr 1.4 manual shift. Just wondering if anyone has encountered something similar with any of their cars. When I put the key in the ignition nothing happens. The gauge cluster doesn’t turn on. Nor does the radio, ac controls or power through the USB port or 12v port. However the door open light comes up on the dash. And the park lights come on when you turn the lights on.

The central locking still works as does the alarm (horn beeps) however using the horn wont make it beep. I’ve checked the fuses and they are fine. I initially thought it was a blown relay as my dad pulled the ecu relay and flicked it, plugged it back in and off I went. Then this morning when I put the key in after dropping my daughter off at daycare it did the same thing again. Also does anyone know where to find a wiring diagram for the relays so I can try finding an aftermarket part.


My guess would be a faulty ignition switch since nothing turns on except the stuff that would come on with out the key present such as the headlights.

Oct 312017
 

1995 Ford E150

No Heat

I put it in the shop for them to fix problem. It came back running worse. Turns out they took out the proair 800 and bypassed it so coolant was circulating but not enough since I was still overheating. I redid everything they did and it runs better. I put in some radiator sealant and that sealed a few things I didn’t want it to. Mainly the overflow which helped keep running just a little longer. I fixed that but it still keeping it running a bit longer.

I noticed when I did the by pass in the back that there isn’t a really marked as to which hose to which so I may have that wrong plus the wiring that I plugged back together there is one I couldn’t find. And two that plugged into fuses back there didn’t say which fuse they went too.

I have since developed a leak in radiator and it overheats. Other than that the van runs great. Way better than before but I can’t afford another radiator or even coolant at this point but before when proair 800 was still bypassed I had heat. When I rerouted the lines in back is when all the cold air just stayed on. Feels like air conditioning is stuck. But I do get warm air right when it starts getting really hot please give me the very best guess possible is it the wire I didn’t plug in. Are the two hoses reversed? Or is it just that I need a new radiator. I live in Alaska and heat is crucial.


Best guess is there is an air pocket in the system. And it will be almost impossible to for the system to work if it has a leak. You need the cooling system to be leak free. Needs to be completely filled with 50/50 mix of coolant/water and bled of no air. Straight coolant or straight water will cause it to overheat even in perfectly functioning cooling systems.

Another thought I had was if both heater hoses are hot, and it is blowing cold it may be that the vacuum hoses didn’t get hook back up right on the back of the control head. If there is a vacuum leak the mode door actuator won’t work correctly.

Oct 312017
 

1999 SAAB 9-3

I have a manual transmission on my SAAB. The shifter was disconnected to put in a new ignition switch. But transmission was not locked in 4th gear when linkage clamp was loosed. How do I get the car back into 4th with the linkage disconnected?


Reconnect the linkage and move the shifter. Sounds vague but it is what is required.

Oct 292017
 

Hyundai Accent

My car stopped starting last week. The battery is less than 4 months old. I can jump the car and it will run indefinitely with no power problems. Whenever I turn off the engine it will not start back up. It makes a clicking noise as long as I keep the key turned. I took the car to Autozone and they checked the battery, starter and alternator. They said the alternator was bad. I replaced the alternator, but the car still will not start without a jump. Took the car back to Autozone and they again said it was the alternator. I checked the wiring(except at the starter because it is hard to get to), replaced the terminals on the wiring to the battery. Checked the ground wire. Nothing I have done seems to solve the problem. It just clicks when I try and start it.


Replace the BATTERY!  It doesn’t matter how old it is, if its bad, its bad. The clicking noise is the tip off.

 

Oct 282017
 

 GMC Sierra

Idles a little rough and when pressing the accelerator doesn’t have power and stalls sometimes.


Doesn’t have power

The first thing to do would be to have any check engine light codes scanned. Post them below in the comments. If there are no check engine light codes then the most common cause for this on your vehicle would be a lack of fuel pressure. This can be from a faulty fuel pump or a restriction in the fuel line. The restriction could be a clogged fuel filter or a kink in the line. Could also be from a faulty sensor signalling the PCM to use less fuel such as a faulty MAF sensor.

Quick test

A quick test would be to have someone press the accelerator and when it bogs, spray some starting fluid in the air filter. If the engine revs up then you know it is a lack of fuel that is causing the issue.

Oct 282017
 

honda civic

My car will not turn over. When I turn the key all the lights turn on and makes a buzzing sound. The steering wheel does not turn.


Car will not turn over

Most likely cause for this problem would be a bad or weak battery. The lights only draw a few amps to operate but the starter requires hundreds. If the battery is older than 4 years it is good enough reason to replace it.

1992 Suzuki Sidekick radiator low on coolant

 Auto Repair Questions, Suzuki  Comments Off on 1992 Suzuki Sidekick radiator low on coolant
Oct 282017
 

Suzuki Sidekick

I had the timing belt changed via an auto mechanic on my 1992 Suzuki Sidekick 2WD JS 16Valve. The radiator has always had fluid in it. When I got it back it had fluid only in the reservoir. I told the mechanic and put fluid in it and drove it back, he said it was a faulty radiator cap. I bought a new one. He said the reservoir holds all the fluid the radiator needs.

I have had this car since it was new and it always had fluid in the radiator. (I replaced it with a brand new radiator approx. 3 years ago.). I am not sure why the radiator is not keeping coolant in it. I am a 63 year old woman and my knowledge of this area is limited. Any ideas ? My mechanic is on vacation or I would call him. Thank you


The reservoir is more like a reserve tank. If the coolant in the radiator becomes low it will draw from it.

If the radiator is low then it should be filled along with the reservoir tank. Then let the engine run for a few minutes to assist in purging any air from the cooling system. Allow the engine to cool and remove the radiator cap and top off.

filling radiator on Suzuki Sidekick

Drive it for a few days and check the coolant level in the radiator often to make sure there is no leak. If the coolant level continues to go down repeatedly, you will need to have the cooling system pressure tested to locate the leak. Once the leak is located, have it repaired.

How to fill the Cooling System

NOTE: The vehicle must be parked on level ground when filling the cooling system.

  1. Install the radiator drain plug, then fill the radiator with the proper coolant and install the radiator cap. When installing the radiator cap, ensure that it is fully tightened.
  2. Start the engine and allow it to idle for 2–3 minutes to purge air from the cooling system, then turn the engine OFF.
  3. Remove the radiator cap and, if necessary, add coolant to the radiator until the coolant level is at the base of the fill neck.
  4. Inspect the coolant level in the reserve tank and, if necessary, add coolant to bring the level in the tank to the FULL mark.

Honda Civic engine pinging

 Auto Repair Questions, Honda  Comments Off on Honda Civic engine pinging
Oct 272017
 

2016 Honda Civic

I put a can of nos octane booster fuel treatment in my 2016 Honda Civic yesterday. On my way home while merging on to the highway, the car started making a “ting, ting, ting” noise. Almost like rattling. I pulled over, and remerged back onto the highway and it made that same sound. It only does it while accelerating.

Could this be maybe the fuel injector cleaner removing the crud?


Engine pinging

I wouldn’t think your octane booster would cause it, if anything octane booster should have helped it. If it is just the name of the fuel treatment and not an actual booster it still shouldn’t cause an issue unless you you added it to less than 1/8 of gas.

Generally the “ting, ting, ting” noise is  commonly referred to as engine pinging. This is caused by too low of octane for the ignition timing to handle. On older engines the ignition timing is adjustable and can be adjusted to not ping in lower octane situations. On newer vehicles the engine is equipped with a knock sensor that will adjust the ignition timing automatically when this happens. If you continue to drive it this way permanent internal engine damage may occur. (hole in the piston)

If the fuel tank is less than half full, I would recommend filling it with the highest octane fuel available. And buy it from a different fueling station just in case the last fill up was contaminated.