Nov 162016
 

1994 Honda AccordMy 1994 Honda Accord has been the most trouble free and reliable auto I’ve ever owned. I became the 2nd owner of this low-mileage vehicle back in 2007 after my Infiniti Q45 went kaput. Since then, it has required minimal repairs beyond the usual maintenance.

My current issue has me stumped. It may be coincidental, but I never had any sort of electrical or CHECK ENGINE light issues prior to a recent visit to one of those drive-through car washes at a gas station, where the vinyl slats pound the car and the water shoots in from the sides as the device moves back and forward along the length of the car.

Anyway, immediately upon leaving that car wash, for the first time ever my CHECK ENGINE light suddenly came on. Just solid, no blinking. I also noticed that the Speedometer and odometer were dead. I have four analog gauges in my IP: Two large ones, the Speedo (with old-style odometer) on the right, and the Tachometer on the left. Outside of both of those are small analog gauges for the fuel level (right) and oil temp (left).

The rest of the IP uses digital indicators (battery charge, SRS, CHECK ENGINE, etc.,), and there is a stacked P-R-N-D4-D3-2-1 series of indicator lights in the center, separating the two big analog gauges. The tranny indicators are just boxes whose edges become illumined depending on the AT gear selection.

When the CHECK ENGINE light came on, I drove for a while, then stopped the engine. Waited a few minutes and restarted. Things seemed fine, back to normal, with speedo and odometer working, and no warning lights, until about another 10 or 15 minutes into the drive. At that point the D4 green light started flashing, and continued flashing when the CHECK ENGINE light came on again, staying lit solid as before.

Could this be an electrical issue? It puzzles me that the speedometer and odometer are dead, since I thought those were mechanically related to the rotation of the wheels and not dependent on fuses or electrical wiring.

Where do you suggest I start my troubleshooting? BTW the tranny seems normal, no harsh or unexpected shifting, no gear slipping, and all the fluid levels are fine. All the other analog gauges work fine too.

CHECK ENGINE light, dead speedo/odometer and blinking D4 indicator light. That’s where I’m at. Hope you can offer some insight. Thanks in advance if you can.


RESPONSE

Your electrical system may be wet. The condition will usually be corrected when the electrical system dries out. A few driving trips should turn the light off. This is common after driving through a big puddle or EXTREME car wash.

 

Speedometer:

This vehicle uses a an electronic sensor called a VSS – Vehicle Speed Sensor that is mounted int he transmission and sends an output signal.

VSS test chart 1994 Honda Accord

D4 Indicator Light Blinking:

If an abnormality exists in the the transaxle electronic control system and a fault code is stored in the TCM memory, TCM will deliver an output signal to turn on and blink “D4” light on A/T gear position indicator on the instrument panel.

Nov 022016
 

2009 Honda AccordHow do I replace the high beam lamps on my 2009 Honda Accord EX?


RESPONSE

Headlight Replacement (High Beam)

  1. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the headlight wiring harness.
  2. Turn the bulb socket 45 º counterclockwise to remove the bulb.
  3. Install a new bulb in the reverse order of removal.

high beam headlight replacement 2009 Honda Accord

Headlight Replacement (Low Beam)

  1. Remove the inner fender.
  2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the headlight.
  3. Turn the bulb socket 45 º counterclockwise to remove the bulb.
  4. Install a new bulb in the reverse order of removal.

headlight replacement low beam 2009 Honda Accord

Oct 192016
 

2004 Honda Accordshifting mod automatic ! almost like it slips then grabs and goes


RESPONSE

May be low on fluid or has a sticking solenoid.

A/T System Description – Hydraulic Controls

Hydraulic Controls

Valve Bodies

The valve body includes the main valve body, the regulator valve body, and the servo body. The ATF pump is driven by splines on the left end of the torque converter which is attached to the engine. Fluid flows through the regulator valve to maintain specified pressure through the main valve body to the manual valve, directing pressure to the shift valves and to each of the clutches via the solenoid valves. Shift solenoid valves A, B, C, D, and E are bolted on the servo body. A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A, B, and C are mounted on the outside of the transmission housing.

Solenoids 2004 Honda Accord

Main Valve Body

The main valve body contains the manual valve, shift valves and the relief valve, the lock-up control valve, the cooler check valve, the servo control valve, and the ATF pump gears. The primary function of the main valve body is to switch fluid pressure on and off and to control hydraulic pressure going to the hydraulic control system.

Regulator Valve Body

The regulator valve body contains the regulator valve, the torque converter check valve, lock-up shift valve, and the 1st and 3rd accumulators.

Servo Body

The servo body contains the servo valve, shift valve D, the accumulators for 2nd, 4th, and 5th, and shift solenoid valves for A, B, C, D, and E.

Oct 172016
 

1995 Honda CivicI replaced thermostat in which I noticed it was centered and old was off centered. I also replaced fan switch and fan still not coming on. I checked relay its good and I jumped fan it works so could it be the new thermostat?


RESPONSE

Nothing to do with the thermostat. A couple of things to consider. If the vehicle has Air Conditioning or not is important. If your Civic did not come with Air Conditioning and you have juice to the relay and it is just not getting activated, the most likely reason would be a faulty ECT – Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.

If you do have Air Conditioning there are a few more relays to check before assuming the ECT is bad. The condenser fan relay and the A/C compressor relay.

I have added both wiring diagrams to give you a better idea of what is involved. If all components check out, there may be a wiring issue to look at.

Cooling Fans with Air Conditioning Wiring Diagram

1995-honda-civic-cooling-fans-w-a-c-1-of-1

Cooling Fans without Air Conditioning Wiring Diagram

1995-honda-civic-cooling-fans-w-o-a-c-1-of-1
Oct 102016
 

2002 Honda Accordcar turn over, starts and run fine for about 20 or more miles. Once its shut down and sit for a hour or two, it turn over/crank fine but will not start, once it sits a day or two its starts. this cycle continues. No codes are generated. can’t correlated it with wet or dry weather. Thanks!!


RESPONSE

In most cases this would be from an ignition system component break down that is caused from heat. This is why once it sets for a day it starts and runs just fine. Would be pertinent to find out what it is not getting when it woill not start. No Fuel , No spark, etc.

Sep 292016
 

2009 Honda Accord under-dash fuse boxCigarette lighter/power accessory socket will not work. Have changed out the fuses from the driver side fuse box, the under hood fuse box looks fine. Was wondering if there was something I am missing. Was unable to get the under hood fuse out of the box, kind of just eye balled it with a flashlight.


RESPONSE

Front Power Accessory Socket Testing

NOTE: If the front power accessory socket and console power accessory socket do not work, check the No. 18 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver’s under-dash fuse/relay box and ground (G503) first.

1.Remove the center console panel.
2.Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the front accessory power socket (B).
3.Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.

◦If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary and recheck the system.
◦ If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.

4.Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I).
5.Measure the voltage between the front accessory power socket 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground. There should be battery voltage.

◦ If there is battery voltage, go to step 6.
◦ If there is no battery voltage, check for:

– Blown No. 23 (15 A) fuse in the driver’s under-dash fuse/relay box.

– Faulty front accessory power socket relay.

– Poor ground (G601).

– An open in the wire.
6.Check for continuity between the front accessory power socket terminal No. 2 and body ground. There should be continuity.

◦ If there is continuity, replace the power socket; go to step 7.
◦ If there is no continuity, check for:

– Poor ground (G503).

– An open in the wire.

2009 Honda Accord power accessory socket testing
7.Remove the socket (A).
2009 Honda Accord power accessory socket removal
8.Remove the housing from the panel.
9.Install the power socket in the reverse order of removal.

Fuse Box Diagram 2009 Honda Accord

fuse box diagram 2009 Honda Accord

When the fuse checks out OK, the next thing to check would be the Accessory Port/Socket relay. The relay is also located in the under-dash fuse box. See number 4.

Accessory Port relay diagram 2009 Honda Accord

If the relay checks OK, Check the wiring harness, connections and the Accessory port/socket itself.

Sep 222016
 

1998 Honda CivicMy friend is stuck living in her car at a Walmart parking lot. Her car died on her. She has checked everything but when she turns her key it makes a revving sound but doesn’t turn over to start the engine. Some people told her a purple mark on her fuel filter means it hasn’t been changed in awhile, could it be bad starter or just bad fuel filter like people say?


RESPONSE

More then likely neither. If the starter was bad the engine would not spin over. If the fuel filter was bad the car wouldn’t have made it to Walmart to begin with. More than likely the timing belt has broken or the vehicle is out of fuel.

Sep 062016
 

2003 Honda AccordWindows still go up and down after opening door to exit vehicle. Will this run battery down overnight? The windows usually will not work after opening the door.


RESPONSE

Probably not, but if power is also going to other places then you bet it will run the battery down. If the ignition switch is left in the “ON” position, the computer and everything else will definitely drain the battery. If you just hard wired battery power tot eh window switch, shouldn’t drain the battery unless you are operating the windows themselves. If the vehicle is all stock, sounds like a door latch failure causing the issue. Does the dome light go out when you close the door?

Power Windows System Description

Key Cylinder Operation

With the key inserted in the driver’s door key cylinder, turn the key a second time and hold within 10 seconds to operate the windows (clockwise to open, counterclockwise to close). The windows stop moving when the key is released.

NOTE: Anti-trap will not work when door key cylinder switch is used to close the windows.

Keyless Operation

By pressing the UNLOCK button of the keyless transmitter a second time and holding, the windows open. The windows stop moving when the UNLOCK button is released. The windows do not close with the LOCK button.

Anti-trap Power Window Operation

The system is composed of the power window master switch, the power window master switch and the driver’s window motor. The power window motor incorporates a pulser which generates pulses during the motor’s operation and sends the pulses to the power window control unit. As soon as the power window master switch detects no pulses from the pulser, the control unit makes the power window motor stop and reverse. This is to prevent pinching your hand or fingers during auto-up operation.

 

Aug 312016
 

2007 Honda OdessyI bought a 2007 Honda Odyssey which its fuel mileage is rated at 26 MPG on the highway, but I am only getting 20 MPG. I was able to get 24 to 26 MPG with my former car, a 2004 Honda Odyssey….. So I took my newer Honda to a mechanic and he replaced the 2 Oxygen Sensors, because he said the old ones were not opening, replaced coil on plug boot, replaced spark plugs, did a fuel system tune up, put on brand new tires, did a 4 wheel alignment and balanced the tires, and did an oil change. All at a cost of $1700. So I took the Honda on some trips on the highway and got the same… 20 MPG. I really thought that Big O Tires ripped me off, but my wife suggested that our new Honda was just sensitive to higher speeds so instead of going 65 miles per hour, I toned it down to 60 MPH and used the cruise control. Then my MPG went up to 22.5 MPG, but I still think that something is wrong. Thanks for any help on this issue. -Arnie


RESPONSE

The air filter wasn’t replaced? Is the check engine light on? Any existing codes would be helpful to know. The fuel you put in the tank can also have a big impact on fuel mileage. Once this tank of fuel is run out try switching to a different fueling station. A problem I see often is the same fuel tanker that transports diesel fuel will transport a batch of unleaded without flushing the remnants. This causes the octane level to drop and will cause the engine to reduce ignition timing to avoid engine knock and damage to the engine. When this occurs your fuel mileage and performance suffer.