About 10 days ago the check engine light comes on. HAd check ny locaol repair shop. Tells me Code P200A, “Intake runner”. Said he lubricated and if light comes back to bring to Dealer. Light comes next day. Make appt for dealer, 3 days out. Next morning battery is dead, (probably about right, time wise). Drop car off for appt. Dealer says needs new battery and Check engine light needs part (Sorry, didn’t get that info). Labor for part for check engine light problem $350. HAd AAA change battery that afternoon and dealer ordered part. It’s 7 days since battery has been changed, no check engine light. Possible dead/weak battery could have anything to do with Check engine light or just coincidence. Obviously don’t want to pay for unnecessary repair.
My a/c is blowing hot and freon is full. It is blowing the a/c fuse in box under hood within mins of replacing it. It does blow cool until then. But only a few mins. There are no other problems. Do you think it could be a relay and how should I trouble shoot this.
I have a piered exhaust. Can I drive the car? Can the pipe be fixed or does it have to be replaced? Please help!
can engine be damaged if spark plugs need replacing? can damaged spark plugs cause idling and rough ride?
engine light is on and car is idling louder and faster; driving seems to be heavier. What is wrong? — appointment scheduled with mechanic, in the interim is it safe to drive
A/c works on passenger side but driver side is hot air. Mechanic charged me $100 and just added refrigerant. 2 weeks later problem reappeared. Passenger side air conditioning is okay but the drivers side has warm air.
The horn started interment blowing and then stopping, the door locks also are clicking. Is it the battery going bad or perhaps the electric key?
I recently installed an intake manifold spacer in my car, as well as 2 new gaskets on both sides of the spacer. The spacer restricts a small amount of heat from the lower part of the engine to transfer to the intake manifold. After installation I had my CEL come on. Auto zone and O’Reilly ran codes and they were P01123- throttle position sensor/switch A circuit high input, P0222-throttle position sensoror pedal position sensor/switch B circut low input.
I sought help from some forums members at a certain website, and they suggested I get an OBD2 reader and an app on my phone to read if I was getting WOT from the TPS/Electronic throttle control. I did and I do get a full WOT when flooring it, which should mean the TPS/ETC is fine. I then used the reader and the app to pull codes from my ECU, and I got P0113-intake air temp circuit high input, P0106-manifold absolute pressure/barometric pressure circuit range/performance problem, and finally P2228-barometric pressure circuit low.
I have tried resetting the ECU a number of times. I have ensure all sensors are plugged in. I have ensured there are no loose wires or nicks or cuts in the wires. I’m at a loss as to what to try next. This is sort of a oddball car to get help on because, other than a dealership, there’s just not many specialists out there for them. Thank you for any information you may be able to provide.
My car is stuck in 3rd gear and the CEL is on. Took the car to the local Auto Zone and had them check the codes. The code that came was P0750 which after doing some research points to a bad shift solenoid A. What would be easier or the best way to fix this? To either replace the solenoid or to replace the entire valve body? Also I wouldn’t know which solenoid to replace because I haven’t found a good diagram to go by.
my car was making a loud i wanna say a rattling noise when i first started my car and then when i woud excellerate. i was driving to to work and while driving my car shut off. it wont start back up. i have power and spark. i dont know what is wrong with it
Mother in law is 13k past due on oil change. Pulled dip stick and the only oil present was the oil burnt to the stick. Popped the cap and can see its just burned up bad. After a couple of years working in a GM service department I know how bad and costly this could be. Any way to flush out some of the burnt oil and sludge without a complete teardown?