Sometimes when I drive down the road, the engine to my Honda Civic will shut down completely and I have to re-start my car. I will hear a faint click, then the engine just goes off. If I have my lights on, the lights do not go out when the engine goes off. At times I will have to coast to the side of the road, press in the clutch & re-start my car and I continue on. There are also times when I try to re-start, I get the same grinding sound as if I were trying to start my car when the engine is running. It always re-starts, whether it is after one try or after 3 to 4 attempts.
I have replaced Fuel Relay, Distributor with Ignition Coil, Timing is perfect, I have spark, Fuel. Driving one day, everything fine and then the engine just cut out while driving and never restarted. Compression test shows , 1C = 70pnds, 2C = 80 pnds, 3C=80pnds, 4C = 100pnds. No reason for this to have happened. Vehicle engine is two years old. Please help
i have a 99 civic 5 speed. i recently changed my rear main seal. when i took it for a test drive it vibrated with acceleration. after jacking it back up i noticed passenger front tire will spin in reverse fine in neutral but locks up when i spin it forward about a quarter of a turn. not sure what this can be
not reaching normal operating temp fans not working unless ac is on
Change oil every 3500 miles – changed trans fluid once at 40,000 miles-got three more years of payments-what are the best service(s) to preform to maintain life of vehicle?-running 40 mile per day 1/2 highway 1/2 local
Does anyone know the cause of cars vibrating after they warm up? My 2000 Honda Civic Si vibrates after I warmed it up. I already did a complete tune-up (spark plugs, air and fuel filter, and motor mounts). Any suggestions?
ive got a 93 Honda accord ex that isw actin all kinds of funky with the transmission.the computer is good the vss is good. it was squealin like the piggy from deliverance till i took the top set of shift solenoids off.when i took them off there was a lil bit of pressure and just a few tiny bubbles that came out from the lower half of the solenoid block.apparently the solenoid unit cannot be disassembled and repaired like the description from a different service site.only a set of screens that could b removed.i put the unit back on and the squealin stopped i proceeded for a test drive only to no avail.i can shut the car off and wait for what sounds like a vacuum diaphragm to release just makes a faint pop i can then start the car and it will drive and shift until i have to stop and go again then it starts actin all funky not wanting to shift again!Im about 100% sure sumthin is just a little restricted and needs to be cleaned out rebuilt and or replaced and im definitely sure i don’t have enuf money for a new trans!the fluid is clean but im suspicious that it was replaced with or topped off with cheap fluid and i kno hondas are finicky as —–!
Thank you in advance for any help you can offer. I have a 04 Honda CRV that recently overheated after I picked it up from a body shop that had done repairs from a minor accident in which they replaced the radiator. It may have been driven only a couple of minutes or possibly up to 10 minutes while overheated. The body shop had not filled the radiator apparently and they sent a guy to help me on the side of the road where I had pulled over. It took over a ½ a “jug” full of antifreeze and we had to wait for it to charge through the system before the heat in the car worked. The next morning the engine almost stalled twice, although did not completely stall (it more or less, “bucked” while moving), and the check engine light came on. The shop said the check engine light was due to an electrical switch related to the Honda vetch system. The switch was replaced and I went to pick up my vehicle just as they were leaving to test drive it. The test driver came back and told the manager while I was standing nearby that the same thing was happening, that it was mechanical and something about restricted oil flow. They shop is supposed to call me today after they check it out again. I’m a female, don’t know much about cars. Is there anything I should know or ask? The body shop told me when they hooked up the computer to my car after the overheating incident that there were no overheating codes, but this electrical switch problem showed up. Do these issues; the vetch system switch problems, check engine light, engine almost stalling sound like they could be issues caused by vehicle overheating? I’m wondering if this is the body shops fault since they didn’t fill the radiator properly and apparently didn’t test drive the vehicle before they said it was done. Although, the manager told me he ran it for a “long” time before he called us to pick it up. Not sure can believe that – wouldn’t it have overheated then if there wasn’t enough radiator fluid. Sorry for this long email. Thank you so much for any help or thoughts.
Tail pipe is making popping while idling, just replace head gasket couple days ago to fix blown head head gasket